Shopping ala Turka in Istanbul

People have various reasons for visiting Istanbul but the top popular reasons are sight-seeing and shopping and maybe the cuisine. Or..maybe after reading this Blog ha ha..lol....just to check if I was writing the truth about Istanbul. But then, my perspective is from someone who is living in Istanbul. It would differ a lot from a tourist's perspective but still is as exciting, I hope!

Today, let's talk about shopping in Istanbul. It's everybody's favorite subject, including yours truly. Turkey is an exciting place to go for shopping due to its location, historical events and its role as a manufacturers to many European products. Yes, Turkey manufactures a lot of products for its local consumption as well as for export to other European countries. A lot of  Designer products that you buy at those exclusive boutique from any European countries originated from Turkey, especially leather goods. Turkey has this special 'silk leather' where a silk leather jacket, when folded is lighter and less bulky than a normal cotton or wool jacket...go figure! Such is the quality of products that were made in Turkey. So...it is common to ask for Made In Turkey products when you shop in Istanbul. Not that we have any objection or prejudice against other products, but just make sure that you get genuine Turkish products when you are in Istanbul. Otherwise you could just sit in front of your computer and order from eBay, right?

Shopping in Istanbul in an art. As I mentioned earlier, it helps if you have a Poker face or thick or dark skin. All this will help to camouflage your true feelings as you negotiate over that nice piece of Iznik bowl. Never ever buy at the first offer of price and always, always check out few other shops before you actually make the purchase.

My experience tells me NOT to buy in the Grand Bazaar or any other Bazaars. It is always cheaper to buy from the shops outside the Bazaars. The reason is quite simple actually. At a rental of US15,000 per month, the shopkeepers have no choice but to pass the 'fixed cost' to the customers. How much more could they over-charge...you might ask. Well....how does two or three times sound to you? I had on several occasion, demanded a refund, demanded an exchange, from shops in The Grand Bazaar after discovering that they had over-charged me over a purchase. Most times, you must do a research before buying something, especially if its an investment piece.

Recently, I found a safe and satisfying place to shop for Turkish items. It is actually owned by the Culture and Tourism Department of Turkey and is situated very closed to the Spice or Egyptian Bazaar in Eminonu. Go and see the variety of things on sale around Istanbul if you want. Then, when you are ready to purchase, you'll be better off buying these items from this government-owned shop. You can rest assure that you'll get the most reasonable price, a genuine item and fully-backed by the Turkish government. And all products have a price tag and price is fixed. That sound 'safe' enough for you? They sell all sorts of things including kilim, carpets, porcelain, silverware, books and other souvenir items. And...most of all, nobody will hassle or bother you while you browse through the items before deciding to buy them. And..they have helpful and friendly staffs as well. The last time I was there, they gave me stacks of  CDs of Turkish music as gifts...nice..nice..!! Check them out, you can thank me later though other traders might scorn at me for letting the cats out of the bags..... oh oh...I am so NOT going to be popular...after this.....

The Culture Center Shop that sells everything Turkish, with a price tag! Check out this shop first before you make any purchases as this shop is backed by the Turkish Government. You can be assured of its genuity and fair prices. 

As you come out of the Eminonu Station, take the tunnel and take the middle staircase. Walk behind Yeni Camii and turn towards your right as if going towards the Spice Bazaar. The Culture Center shop should be to your left. No tourist bus as the roads are not open to cars before 6pm. Browse all you like, nobody will hassle you.

View inside the shop. It has everything that a tourist want. Porcelain being a difficult items to buy as we could never find out the true cost of the products. But here, the products are priced fairly according to its quality and other factors.

I am sure that you'll be mesmerized by the beautiful collections just as I was. If you think that the items are too big or heavy to brought back by plane, they can arrange to ship them them to your home either via air or sea. No problem..sorun yok !!! 

See ?? The staffs are professional and won't bother you at all. What a relief from all those "calls' in the bazaars...

They have good collection of books on Turkish history, arts & crafts..in fact, anything Turkish! Some are available in english. You can even read the books first before deciding whether to buy or not. 

They sell authentic tribal and ethnic kilims with beautiful designs. And all are reasonably priced.

Upstairs, they have nice collections of kilims and carpets that came from all over the continents in Turkey. You can choose from wool, cotton or silk materials. And in such a peaceful environment without any salesman trying to confuse you with many details. Why..they don't even offer you turkish tea...just plain selling with no veiled charm.

This captivating wool kilim can be yours for a mere TL250. That is a good price going at Istanbul's standard!

This big (10ft x 6 ft) wool on wool kilim from Konya will set you back at TL850! And there are many more similar kilim of different designs but of the same price. A good silk on silk kilim of this size will cost about TL2700 here....

While the tourists normally shop along the tram line in the Old City, the locals normally do their shopping inside and behind this normal tourist route. You see, if you took the tram to go to The Grand bazaar from the other side, you'll feel as if they are far apart. Actually, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar is interconnected from within the internal sokak (lane). You can actually walk up to the Grand Bazaar from the Spice Bazaar! And all along this lanes, there'll be shops selling almost everything that you'll need but at a fraction of a price that you'll be paying at the Bazaars or along the tram line.

Be warned that if you found yourself in these sokak (lanes), buy anything that caught your fancies because there are so many lanes and sub-lanes, you'll never find that same shop again. There are thousands of shops and to make matters worse, the traders love (which I hate) to change the front (facade) of their shops with different items that you simply can't have a good reference of the shop from its look. The prices are reasonable here, that's why the locals buy from here. And there are also many wholesalers and it's a common sight to see people with big trolley bags buying for their business. Err..actually I was one of them, chugging along the lanes with my shopping trolley after spraining my muscle carrying a heavy and bulky purchase. The pain was excruciating, so much so that I thought I was having a heart attack!! But..did that stop me from shopping?? NOT !!!

Some tourists prefer to shop at the swanky Istinye Park for high-end goods...where you can get tax rebates or tax refunds immediately at the shopping centre...

Istinye Park is one of the latest high end shopping center in Istanbul but is not easily accessible as it is not connected to the METRO underground train and the buses are quite limited. As such..it is normally frequented by the local and nearby residents. Its a plus point for those who do not like crowded shopping centre.

Ortakoy is another popular tourist spot for leisure and shopping. You can also hop on one of the ferries for a Bosphorus cruise. It only cost TL10 for an hour cruise and you can have the opportunity of admiring the lovely water villas and great buildings by the Bosphorus. 

Or you can shop for exotic cars like this white (Lambo) beauty....hey Mister, I do envy you !!

Shopping along the tramline at The SultanAhmet area. Almost all tourists would take this route to do their shopping without realising that parallel to this road, behind the fancy buildings...are where the actual buying and selling activities are taking place. 

See what I meant? This is where the locals do their shopping at a local price. You just need to know a little bit of their language and you'll blend in with them. Some shopkeepers can even speak English. Ask them to show you the price on their small calculator as it is also common for them to 'change' the price the moment they realised that you are a Yabanci (foreigners). I found the traders here easier to deal with and are genuinely friendly and helpful. I guess because business is so good here, they don't have time to scam or plot a plan to scam. Come here anytime of the day, any day and you'll notice that it is always full of people.

To reach this shopping "hole", exit through Gate 18 of The Grand Bazaar. Then, simply walk down

along the terrain of the hill. There will be numerous sub-lanes but eventually, you'll reach the Spice Bazaar. That is..if you still have money to spare after going through these irresistible shops.   

Ran out of cash? Nothing to worry about..there's always an automatic teller machine for you to get more 

Romantic bedcovers for the wedding or simply for your daily usage? There's plenty to choose from in the color of the rainbow. They're affordable,too. So, no need to save them for special days, you can use them everyday.

You can even get a wedding dress here. And there are also many accessory shops that cater for dressmaking and any other tailoring services. And many more specilised shops selling laces, embroideries and other products that I don't even know the names of. 

Lingerie anyone? These will end up in a boutique somewhere at triple or four times the original price here.

Embroidered table place set? They are so beautiful, when I first saw them, I thought they were headwear!

Shoppers caught in a sudden rain. Miraculously, many men will appear to offer umbrellas at TL5 each. But business resume as usual and no rain can stop them. Or me ha ha...

More embroidered and lacy table set. Careful there...if you set the table so nicely, your guests might not want to go home.... 

Evening dresses fit for Cinderella......

Beautiful dresses and gowns at a fraction of a price....

This shop specialises  in "kuna" ceremony items. Seems that the night before the bride solemnise a wedding, she'll have a night whereby she'll be decorated and adorned in this beautiful attire while "henna" tattoo will be applied on her body and hands. One last "fun night" before she enters the world of matrimony. Well, the westerners have the "stag" party, the Turks have their "kuna" party.

More products and items to be used for the "kuna" ceremony.

Little boys would cringe on seeing this shop, I guess. Why? Because these are costumes to be worn when they have their "circumcision" ceremony. When they come of age, the male Turks will undergo a big ceremony to mark the circumcision event. They will treated like "king" or "prince" for the day and decked up with this beautiful ceremonial robes. This is to mark their journey forward into adulthood. I can assure you, the boys really look 'handsome' in their costume.

Ahhh...more gowns and wedding dresses....so many choices and only one wedding...arghh....

You have reached the Spice Bazaar area. This sokak is right behind the Spice Bazaar. This where you can get the best and cheapest lokum or turkish delights, all sorts of nuts and other products. 

Noticed the man with a big basket on his back? Well....if ever your purchases become too heavy for you to carry, you can 'hire' him to carry your purchases at a small fees. Frankly, this is one scene that I could not bear to see. I know he's earning an honest living but my heart still bleeds when I see them.

Ohhh...lovely Van cat on leash! What a beautiful thing.....but she's on leash...she was actually scared of me when I approached her initially.

Took some time and some coaching before she allowed me to come this close. What beautiful way to end my day!!

Please note that the locals normally pay installments for their purchases. You'll notice that on the price tag, there'll be 2 prices printed on it. The higher one is for the installment payment. If you paid by cash, you should be paying the cheaper price. Likewise, if there is no price tag (which is more likely) then, ask for discount of at least 10% if you paid by cash. Most times, they'll be happy to oblige.

Finally, if you need to ship back your bulky purchases, make sure they pack the right items as its very common for them to ship a different item though I couldn't confirm if this was done intentionally or otherwise. Just be more careful and alert and after that....just enjoy your shopping experience in Istanbul !!

FOOTNOTE :

I was shopping along the Gulhane tramline when I noticed that many people were taking photos underneath this tree. Upon checking around (yeah..nosy Parker) they told me that few hundred years ago, convicts were hanged to death from this tree. What a significant tree....I hope I didn't get nightmares after taking this shot.....there is now a Juvenile Court right across this tree. Perhaps the Judge will point out the tree to the Juvenile convicts and remind them of the outcome if they didn't behave! 

   

Istanbul Under Seiged....by the Tourists !!

It's that time of the year again! Spring is definitely here and Istanbul is blooming with beautiful flowers, particularly the tulips. And like how bees are attracted to honey, so do the tourists to Istanbul.

It's that time of the year when you can never get a seat on the underground trains or the trams. It's that time of the year when the shopkeepers rehearse several phrases of different languages. And surprise you by talking in your languages and you immediately let your guard down at hearing familiar phrases in foreign lands. Didn't I warn you before? These traders have been trading for 1000s of years and psychology is their favorite pass time! Welcome To Istanbul...!!

Last year, Istanbul welcomed few millions tourists who splashed TL35 Billions buying all those colorful lamps, carpets, porcelains and those sinful sweets (Turkish delights, Baklava, Helva etc etc)! That's on top of its own people who already amounted to about 17 millions. And most of the tourists are concentrated at the Old City where The Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque are, to name but a few.

Everywhere you go, you can see the long lines of people queuing up to buy tickets to enter a museum or whatever. However, please be informed that, if you engaged a "guide" to bring you around the place, you needn't have to queue as this "guide" will miraculously get the tickets that you require. How wonderful...and it's only for a small fees. It's worth using their services as they'll also explain to you of the significance of the places that you're visiting. So..win-win situation.

Normally, the tourists from America and Canada will arrive in May. Those from the Arab countries will arrive in June. And maybe it'll thrill you to know that there are actually 3 tiers of pricing during this period.

The 1st tier, being the cheapest, understandably is reserved for the locals and maybe (if I'm Lucky) is also for Yabanci (foreigners) who speak Turkish or at least made an effort to speak Turkish. You see, they do reward you for making an effort, just like the French. So...most times, I was lucky to have this privilege. Is the price difference a lot? Let's just say, I could get two for the price of one...nice, nice...are you excited already?

The 2nd. tier is of course....for the wonderful tourists who came to Istanbul for a holiday. If you showed your liking of a product to them, you can rest assure that you'll be getting a higher than normal price. Be nonchalant and dis-interested and they'll drop their prices to the floor to get your attention. You need a poker face to excel in this game but if you're pressed for time, then you're already on the losing side. I have seen so many of my guests who would agree on the prices before I could even start to negotiate! They said that they were running out of time, so there goes their bargaining power.

Then the 3rd. tier is surprisingly reserved for a certain Nation that I could not mention here. I am yet to find out why these Nations are subjected to this highest prices but I have been told that it's because they like to 'take' unauthorized 'souvenirs' from hotels or elsewhere. Hmm...interesting...but I can't vouch how true this is. Not to worry, most of you readers out there fall into Tier 2, so it ain't that bad....do have a wonderful time in Istanbul !!!

This is how a normal crowd looked like on normal days at the side entrance of the Spice or Egyption Bazaar. This was taken on a Sunday when The Grand Bazaar is closed.

The crowd at The Taksim Square or Meydan is frightfully large on this day, made worse by the 'sending off' march' by the football fans for their favorite teams who were kicking off later on that evening. But it was an orderly march with discipline and many many policemen overseeing the procession.

See the crowd at Taksim Square? I saw no point in cramming into the 'sea of people' and decided to just stand by and watch them walk by as I clicked away happily at my camera. No point of getting myself crushed in this wave....

Even the vintage tram could not argue with the crowd and had to give way....ha ha..that's not a common sight !

The Topkapi Palace crowd on this crowded sunday afternoon.  The queue  to buy the tickets to get in was about a half kilometre long.....but nobody seems to mind..after all, once inside the Palace compound, you'll forget all the difficulties that you had to endure 'cos it was well worth it.....such beautiful historical scenery, views and exhibits. The muslims are particularly keen to see the beard, sword and footprint imprints of Prophet Muhammad PBUH. The ladies are ...of course...keen to see the 86 carat spoonmaker diamond ring!! Ohh.....what a beauty.....

As expected and as usual.....Grand Bazaar was besieged by tourist after I saw 3 big cruise liners berthed at the port. Lets do a quick math.... 3 liners of 4000 passengers multipy by 3...that makes 12,000 people. Assuming half will go to The Grand Bazaar, that mean at least 6,000 people are now in the Bazaar scouting for things from the 4400 shops. That mean, all the shops in the Bazaar will at least have a customer to deal with...wow!! While another 2,000 are probably busy looking for missing wives, friends, parents or who ever. Can you imagine what will happen when these people leave and try to take the tram back to their cruise liners?  

The shopkeeper's assistant !!  Who could resist such cutie??

The overly-pregnant Tram slithered dutifully ferrying the tourist and locals alike....in and out of the tourist spots. Standing room only. To get a seat is a privilege. To one lady tourist from New Zealand, I am sorry I lost you at the Gulhane Stop. I turned around and could not see you anymore as you went to buy the token for the tram. I hope you arrived your destination  all rite that day.

Same Spice Bazaar side entrance but on a different day. And this was taken at 9am when the Bazaar just opened. Soon it'll be impossible to move freely....

Inside Spice Bazaar......impossible to move...

Trying to go out of The Spice Bazaar....impossible to move...really....

Traffic  NOT moving....so I reversed  and went out through the other door. Forget about shopping here today...you simply can't. 

In front of The Yeni Camii (New Mosque). Actually these are mostly locals, the tourists have not risen from their sleep yet. Or from the Kahvalti (Breakfast) spread at their hotel yet. Soon this place will be swarming with tourists and this would signal me to make my way home.....

It was a National Independence Day and  the Metro was decked with flags and balloons. After going through the 'sea of people' this was a welcome change and will help to put a smile back on your face after cramming your way through the city, the Tram and the crowd......and that what makes Istanbul so special !!!!

Congratulation Turkey......you are doing GREAT !!!!