Sunday, June 24, 2012

Outta Istanbul -Turkish pottery treasures in the Grand Bazaar



Before I set foot in Istanbul, I'd always thought that tiles were always meant to be stepped on, on the floor! Well, okay..maybe some people would put some wall tiles on their bathroom or kitchen walls. So, when I first saw the beautiful blue tiles inside the Blue Mosque, I was really perplexed and mesmerized! Whoa..those are really beautiful tiles and they are on the walls, near the dome, cladding the column, framing the doors and windows and many many other unimaginable places....for a tile. Mind you...I was always taught to think out of the box! And the Byzantines and the Ottomans were way ahead of us, centuries ago. Gosh....I felt so small....knowing how advanced these ancient people were.

If you looked at the tiles on the walls of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and other great historical buildings, you'll notice that each tiles are assembled into big panels which will result in a 'picture' of its own. That mean, no two tiles are the same unless they were meant to be done in pairs. And during the Ottoman era, several motifs, designs and symbols were famous according to the history that was happening during that period. So, in a way, its a contemporary way of telling the world of her history as compared to the drawings and writings that we normally found in caves and other artifacts.   

It must have taken them years to complete a masterpiece that remain so magnificent until today for all to see. I suppose during the absence of TV and other entertainment media, one need to be kept amused and occupied and they probably did the masterpieces at a rate of an inch a day!You don't think so? Okay..maybe a foot a day, more reasonable,yes? 

Now, while we are familiar with the splendor of Chinese potteries, Turkish potteries have not been given the same limelight until recently. Frankly, before arriving here, me too have not heard of Turkish potteries or of its magnificence and significance. Yeah..we are all guilty of being ignorant...or was it naive? Why am I saying this? Because by now, I am "hooked" on Turkish tiles and potteries and everything in between. I guess you'll have to be here in order to appreciate and value them. It sort of grew on you. First, you'll see one piece. Then you'll think to yourself...arghh...what a loud color! Then you see another...and you'll think..hmm, not bad. And another...hmmm....that...I like. Before you knew it, you'll have dozens in your home, strategically placed on the sideboard, on the fireplace, on your centre table, in the display cabinet etc. etc. And you'll quietly stash your hubby's old cologne and lotions away so that you can put that cute porcelain-kitten on the dresser...viola!! And...you always have guests over for dinner to show off your beautiful white-blue-green potteries. Well....you know what they say...if you have it, .....!!

This photo and the subsequent 9 photos were taken from the Topkapi Palace. Iznik tiles are superior as compared to the others because it has quartz in it which made them very strong and durable. Iznik tiles of at least 80% quartz are put on external walls as they are hardy enough to withstand any extreme weather and other threatening exposures. Find that hard to believe? Well....these tiles that you are looking at now have been there since the 15th century. Of course, some had to undergo some restoration works but most of them were the original pieces. Don't you find that fascinating? If we put them on our walls, they'll be there for at least 6 or 7 generations to appreciate...wow!!  



















I simply loveeeee these  tiles framing the door. I can't be sure now what was written in the  Arab character (Jawi) but I am not mistaken, it mentions the name of the Ottoman Sultans. But I could be wrong. But they are gorgeous, right ??
























Inside the Baghdad Pavilion. 










Tiles lining the dome inside Baghdad Pavilion.










Notice how important and significant the tiles are...they're everywhere. And look at the beautiful calligraphy on top of the window.
















Centuries old tiles adorning an 'ablution' fountain inside the Grand Bazaar. It is now used as a multi-purpose water feature for all to use.  



Enough of my rambling, now to a more serious note. Deep inside the Grand Bazaar, there is a shop that specialises in Iznik products. Iznik tiles and potteries are the Rolls-Royce of all Turkish potteries. It is sought after due to its quality and extinction. Extinction because Iznik (a place called Iznik) actually do not produce them anymore but for some handful Chini (masters) who still carried out the trade. 

This little 'jewel' of a shop is called Iznik-Art and it occupies 2 shops facing each other deep in Grand Bazaar. I went there twice and I couldn't find my way there again. And the GPS won't work either. But you'll notice the shop when you see it 'cos it has this beautiful wall panels at the front of the shop. You'll also notice that the potteries in this shop are matte finish as compared to the normal 'glazed' finish. According to the owner, the products are glazed but the finish is matte using their special technique. Seems that only they know how to do this special technique.


The following photos were taken from Iznik-Art shops and I will let you feast your eyes on the exquisite pieces and tell me......if like me, you now are beginning to see the beauty of Turkish potteries. Enjoy !!!   





Most of the Iznil potteries in Iznik-Art are reproduction of famous items. The motifs or designs on the items are sometimes copied from the garment worn by the Ottoman Sultans and others. Sometimes, the designs were copied from any personal items that was being used by the Sultans...be it swords, crowns, headgear, skirts, overcoat...but mostly from the garments.







Turquoise is a very popular color in Iznik potteries. This figure actually represent a garment worn by the Ottoman Sultans. If you visited the Topkapi Palace, you'll realise just how proud the Turks are towards this great piece of historical cloth. You will also realise that the items in this shop are matte finish. Look again at the tiles in Topkapi, they're shiny finished. But don't be mistaken, both are glazed, it's just that Iznik-Art used special technique to come out with the matte finish, which they claimed...is the only place where you can get them. Its for you to decide whether or not you like them matte or otherwise. 







These are single tiles. The price of a piece is quite high and as such, it is normally hang singly on the wall when not assembled into a panel. A piece could set you off for US$600 or US$700 ! You get the drift? But...you are bringing home a piece of history and a masterpiece. Now...that's priceless !!!! Not your Mastercard .....



It's also common to hang plates and bowls on the wall for all to see and appreciate it's beauty!



Nice and unique Calligraphy....









Closed up of a bowl with tulips (lale) motif. I'd say tulips are the most famous motifs on the potteries.









A panel of tiles being assembled. When this photo was taken, the panel was not yet completed.



These panels were actually an exact replica of the panels at the Topkapi Palace. I guess by now the assembly has completed and you could see these beautiful assemble inside The Grand Bazaar. I am sure it is a center of attraction to many who passed by. How much would a panel cost? At least US$6000 if I am not mistaken.It is roughly US$600 per tiles.





Ohhh....La La.....



Full collections of products available in the second shop ! Just make sure you do not bring your 3 year olds and below inside. Not that the items would break but I fear that the parents would have a heart attack should there be a minor 'accident'.





Yes....Martha Steward visited the shop when she visited Istanbul. 






Found your favorite pieces already ??



















You don't need a lot....just one or two unique pieces that will surely be the centre of attraction and a conversation piece !





And ...I....love...this....!!







Ahhh.....shopping IS tiring, isn't it? Goodnight readers....wherever you are.....
sweet dream of turkish tiles and potteries.....if you want, you can just board the next plane to Istanbul, you know???


zzzzz.........zzzzzz.....zzzzzzz