Tour of Turkey 1 - Ephesus (Efes)

They say that "those who didn't learn History are bound to repeat the same mistakes". But not all histories come with mistakes! We should also learn history to learn about the best way and options to follow for our lives and others.

If History and archaeological knowledge and findings are your passion, then Turkey offers you a Mecca of opportunities. Turkey is one of the centers of civilisation and it is rich with places literally 'littered' with all these historical and ancient findings. Its earliest settlement has been recorded as early as 3000BC and coupled with its interesting 'conquerors' who brought with them, myriads of culture, knowledge and expertise-transfer, wealth and whatnots....you'll be thrilled to be able to walk on the same path that was a hive of activities more than 2000 years ago!  

I was...on those marbled-paved walkway that was used by the likes of Alexander the Great(in 334 BC) and Emperor Augustus! Not to mention, millions of other visitors from all over the world ever since this ancient Rome city was excavated and uncovered and open to the public. As we speak, more excavations and findings are being discovered as the archaeological excavations are underway continously till today. To be able to see and experience the actual place that you read about is really something out of this world. Well. at least to me.

Ephesus (near Izmir) is located next to the Aegean Sea though centuries ago, the sea was further inland, as far back as Selcuk town. However, silting of the sea brought forward the land and also the demise of the area as an important sea-port and trading center back then. However, the land left behind became a very fertile cultivation land and that explains why Izmir is considered as one of the 'garden' of Turkey since it supplies many vegetables and fruits to places like Istanbul.

The ruin of the ancient Roman City showcased a comprehensive city and give you a glimpse of the lives of the Roman people when they occupied Turkey and made it their capital for "Asia Minor".  It may be called "ancient" but there is nothing ancient about the city or their way of lives.

More than 2000 years ago and they already have theaters, "parliment", offices, shops, library, public toilet, paved walkway, underground water and sewer system, markets, terrace houses (really?) and even..wait for it...a brothel! Ahh....i knew that would catch your eyes...more on the brothel later!

The Romans came before the Byzantine and that why there were many temples among the ruins. Of course, you'll hear a lot of Hercules, Zeus and other Gods that were entombed in the magnificent columns, statues and any other buildings and structures. I'd recommend that you read about it first before making the trip as once you're there, there are simply no time to do anything else but to be amazed and mesmerised by  all those evidence of the "contemporary" ancient city.

It is also advisable for you to at least combine your trip to Ephesus with Pamukkale, which is just another 3 hour drive away from Ephesus. I will write about Pamukkale in my next posting. Meanwhile, I will let the photos "speak" a thousand word and hopefully, you too could get the awe and admiration that I felt as I walked those trodden pathways lined by white, blue and yellow marbles from Turkey, Iran and Iraq. Boy..the Romans are great builders and they really knew how to live and enjoy life....

You might wonder...what brought about the "ruins'? Well...first they were threatened by the silting of the sea, thereafter came a big earthquake that more or less....wipe out the entire city and its civilisation. Today, whenever new stones or evident is excavated out, they will try to piece out the jigsaw puzzle and maybe even make up more hypothesis about the great lives of the Roman people.

The latest finding was on late last year where they uncovered a mosaic-lined pathway in front of rows of terrace houses. I am already surprised to hear that they have terrace houses...let alone a mosaic-paved walkway in front of these houses. Even we can't afford such luxuries in our modern urban pavements!! Now..do you still think that "ours" is the most modern and civilised society???

The General Layout of the Ancient City. SAMSUNG sponsored the excavation of the area.

Part of the underground water system that was used to transport water for the city. Some broken clay pipes were also discovered together with this 'pond'.

Bath at The State Agora ( Market)

A 1400 seat "Odean" that was used for lectures, music performances and meetings for the councils. Built in AD 150, it even incorporate a small tunnel (at the top) to let the "late-comers" in without interrupting the lectures or shows.  The lower seats are actually of marble, obviously reserved for the VIPs.

Marble carving of the Winged Victory that was on the Hercules Gate. However, during my trip it was put somewhere else, possibly  for some restoration or maintenance work.

The Curetes Way leading to the more interesting places of interest.

The Romans built the statue of their leaders and Councilors along the Curetes Way till they reached the Gate of Hercules, where barriers were constructed thereafter to stop any charriots or carriages from going further. As is expected, leaders and councilors changed most of the time. This would require the replacement of the statues accordingly. To mitigate the problem,  only  the heads were changed  each time new faces joined the Council.

Close up of the colorful 5th. century mosaic pathway in-front of the Terrace Houses. A similar mosaic picture was also uncovered recently, believed to be of either Alexander The Great or a Roman Girl but the Turks call it Zeugma. This partially completed potrait of Zeugma has been used numerous time on paintings and other crafts.

The mosaic pathway in between the Terrace Houses (on the left) and The Curetes Way and the Temple of Hadrian (on the right). Note the interior of the Terrace Houses. The new structure in the background is actually offices/quarters for the workers doing the excavation works.

The front of the Terrace Houses. If one row of houses are facing one way, the other row will have their front facing in an opposite direction so that each row would have their own privacy. No "Nosy-Parker" neighbors looking right into your front door! Genius, don't you think? And these were built more than 2000 years ago !! 

Magnificent Corinthian-Style Temple of Hadrian. The Head of Medusa at the top is to protect from evil spirit. It was dedicated to Hadrian, Artemis and the people of Ephesus in AD 118 but was re constructed in the 5th. century. Across the street is the row of 10 Terrace Houses with the elaborate 5th. century mosaic pathway.  

Close up view of the elaborate and intricate friezes in the porch and the head of the Medusa on The Temple of Hadrian.

The "everlasting" motif found on the Temple of Hadrian. So...this is where Versace got the idea for his designs...cool..... 

The Library of Celsus. They used Architectural Trickery to create the "Optical Illusion" of the building so that the lower level looked as if they are higher than the top level and also to create an illusion so that the middle portion looked further apart than the other two ends. Genius...don't you think?? The library was used to store 12,000 scrolls in niches and around its wall. A 1 meter gap between the inner and outer wall help to preserve the scrolls from damage due to temperature and moisture. It was built by Consul Tiberius Julius Aquila who dedicated it to his father Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemeanus in 114 AD. Celsus was buried under the western side of the Library.

The gate of Augustus. The other side of the gate lead to an 110m square Agora (Market place) where trading of food and crafts are done. The gate was dedicated to the Emperor Augustus and his family. Apparently, the Romans like to 'relieve' themselves at the gate here, giving a new meaning to  the "those who piss (pass) here" !

The house where Mother Meryam (Virgin Mary) was believed to have spent her last few years of her life (AD 37 - Ad 45). It was reputed that she came here with St. John.  

Spring water well at the Meryemana ( Virgin Mary's House). Visitors can take or drink from this well. The water is understandably very fresh and refreshing.....just don't forget to bring an empty water bottle to fill it up with this spring water. Some people would also make a wish before drinking the water!

Explanation according to the Quran on Mother Meryam (Virgin Mary)

Signage explaining the The Baths at the State Agora.

Signage explaining the State Agora

The Odeon that sits 1,400 peopleThere is however a bigger theater called the Great Theater that could sit 24,000 people. The great theater is still being used for concert and Elton John had also performed there. The beauty of the theater is that the acoustic is so good, no microphone is required. In fact when we were there, someone played the song "Stairway to heaven" on his iPhone and we could hear the song clearly more than 300 metres outside of the theater. This superb acoustic was achieved by the design of the seats as well as a wall behind the platform / stage. 

The Public Toilet. But only for Men. The women's were built elsewhere. In the winter, the marble slab would be very cold. So, the Master would normally send his slave to the toilet to sit on the slab first. Once the slab is warm and comfortable enough, he would then use the toilet!! The sewer is built very deep down below so there is no stench emanating from  this 'very public' toilet. Actually, I have seen something like in China but I'm not sure who copied who...???

This was on the Sacred Way, facing towards the Library of Celsus. There is a footprint, a bee, a flower on the left of the footprint and something else to the right of the footprint. This discovery reinforces the belief that the "big house" with many rooms found across  The Library is indeed a Brothel. Those whose wants to visit the brothel will have to check his footprint here first. If his footprint is bigger than the print, then he is 'big' enough and can go get his "honey" (from the picture of the bees and flower) i.e to the prostitute. Otherwise, he'll have to turn right and maybe go to the library...!!  Some people said that that's the very reason why the library was built across the brothels. To give the men an alibi (going to the library) when in reality, they're going to the brothel...it's all about the oldest profession in history and the oldest excuse from a man...!!

The Ottoman empire (or Sultans) built more than 80,000 cami (mosques) across Turkey and most of them are quite distinguishable with its quarter dome and 4 or 5 minarets. Sultan Ahmet Camii (The Blue Mosque) is the only one with 6 minarets. However, this is one mosque that was built before the Ottoman time and it is called the Isa Bey Camii. As can be expected, it is way too modest compared to the grand and opulent cami so favored by the Ottoman Sultans. The above are actually tombstones of some famous people and those with the head that look like a head gear actually belong to the mosque or state officers. 

Stunned...mesmerised.....awed....admiration....to be walking on the same pathway that was used by the Romans more than 2000 years ago !! It was truly a walk to remember....a walk of a lifetime...

I know..all those ruins are not everybody's cup of tea, so after the few hours of walking and savoring the ruins, our guide took us to a carpet factory to see how carpets are made. This is cauldron of silkworms in hot water. The lady is spinning silk thread from the silkworms and these threads would be used to make a fine silk carpet. I was told that silk threads are stronger than most metals. Anyone out there want to dispute this?? 

The lady on the left is making wool carpet while the lady on the right is making silk carpet. Notice the sizes of the threads. That explains why silk carpets are more refine, softer and better looking than wool carpets. As such, silk carpets take longer time to complete as compared to wool. A normal wool carpet would take few months, depending on the size and pattern while while a good silk carpet could take years to make. That is how this factory calculate its cost. Its just a matter of multiplying this time in months with its fixed monthly cost. Its fixed monthly cost include the girl's salary, the raw material and other variables such as water and electricity.  I think I have finally found my "quest" for that elusive carpet's real cost. It really irks me when I don't  know how much is the true cost of a certain carpet 'cos the Seller can put any price and you haven't a clue of how to get the real value and cost of the carpet. Don't you? Now, I know the trick !!

Footnote :

To those of you who find this posting rather 'dry'.....I know, it's too much history and most people do not like to look back, for whatever reasons..I have something to 'jolt' your imagination here. I am very sure that you have heard of or even seen a Belly Dancer, right? Well...what would you say, if I said that there is also a MALE Belly dancer. You don't believe me? Look at these photos....cheeriooooo !!

Scene taken at Hodja Pasha Cultural Center Istanbul. 2 hours of Anatolian Cultural Show. This show by a male belly dancer caught everybody by surprise. The Turkish Belly dancing is a bit different from the Arabian Belly Dancing. While the Arab Belly Dancing is sensual, Turkish Belly dancing is more energetic and fast with loud drumming music. Hence, the muscle movement is faster and this guy moves the fastest! 

He got the loudest clap and even did an encore.....and I was even scolded by a big lady next to me for giggling. and that was after this guy had finished, mind you......sheeshhh

If you think belly dancing is sleazy...think again...at least not in Turkey.

See those expressions?? See how full of attentions they are? Actually...you're really enthralled by the muscle movement of the belly dancer. They are supposed to emulate the movement of a snake! One dancer did just that, with just a drum to guide her with her snake muscle movement... 

Turkish Delights - Flying carpet from Istanbul

Its inevitable. Anyone who has been to Turkey must at least buy one Turkish rug, be it carpet, kilim or both.You may make a solemn promise not to be influenced by the oh so friendly carpet sellers but no matter how defiant you are, you will always buy them eventually.  I dare you to prove me wrong! 

What is it about carpets that tickle everybody's fancies?? After all, it's just a piece of cloth that you put on the floor or wall and then, forget completely about it,right? Or..is it really that simple? 

Today i had a lesson on Turkish carpet which i hope to share with you, so that you'll know what to look for when that special day arrives for you to claim your 1st piece. You'd probably knew by now how to look behind a carpet and count the knots. The higher the counts the better,right? Wrong! And you'd probably knew already that a good carpet would have that luster and shine.A better shine and luster would indicate a better carpet,right? Wrong again! And...isn't the softest and lightest silk carpet the best among all? Emm...think again, my dear readers!! The hint here is....unlearn and re-learn.

Today, you'll have to forget everything that you've learnt about carpet and re-learn again. You'll be shocked to learn that your normal standard and guidelines in choosing a good carpet is not accurate, reliable  and applicable anymore.

First, let us understand what and why are carpets created. In turkey, most people in the villages or provinces rear lamb and other animals, apart from the usual farming activities. After the meats are eaten or sold off, they have to make full use of other parts of the animals. The skin are of course turned into those soft and beautiful leather products such as jackets, bags and shoes.And please be informed that China is the biggest buyer of Turkish leathers. So much so that even the Turkish leather manufacturers are finding it difficult to buy Turkish leather now.

The wools are spun to make into yarn or thread for clothes, bags and rugs (carpets and kilims). These wools are spunned by hand,so that's why the yarns are quite thick. there is so much that the fingers can do! Hence, handmade carpets would have a bigger threads or knots at the back of it. I know, we've been taught for centuries that the smaller is the knots at the back, the better. we've been told to see if its like a tapestry behind the carpet. So, that mean, if the thread or knots behind the carpet is so tiny and fine....yes...you guessed it...it's machine made!Forget about what the salesman said about tiny finger of a child spinning them. There goes one myth! 

Being human, we always think that perfect finish is always the best. We are always attracted to the carpets that seems perfect in design, shape, co-ordination, shine and luster. In fact, that's why human created machine to produce all these near perfect carpets. Handmade carpets are normally trimmed by hand as they are being knotted and tufted. In doing so, the finished piece would inevitably be of "uneven" texture. In other words, handmade carpets seldom have that super-shine and super-luster look or finish. They will eventually be heavier than most machine-made carpets. And especially so for Turkish carpets since they are normally double-knotted as compared to their Persian cousins. So..there goes another myth.

Let's talk about the color of the carpets. The people making the carpets in the villages are normally not exposed to chemical dyes. They always use things which are available locally to them. Hence, they will only use organic dyes from vegetables or fruits. Think of good paintings that use natural paints. The paints (or colors) will get better and more intense and stable with time as the dyes stabilise itself. The same will happen with handmade carpets of natural dyes. The color and design will get better over time and that explains why handmade carpets of more than 50 or 100 years still maintains its color and beauty over time. 

Silk carpet? Ohh..who doesn't wanna own this exquisite piece of art? That'll be the "piece de resistance" and we should all try to have at least one of these magnificent "object of desire". When buying your silk carpet in Turkey, be very careful with the definition of "silk". Silk could be pure natural silk, mercerized silk, combination silk and/or manufactured silk. 

To get pure natural silk carpet in Turkey is extremely rare and most times, these so called silk carpets are "mercerized silk" that came from China. Pure natural silk carpet would feel heavier as compared to the "mixed silk". Try to do this test to see if its pure silk but ask for permission from the shopkeepers first before you try. If he knew that the silk is not natural, he'll turn white or the shop might catch fire ha ha. Light one piece  of the fringe of the carpet. If the fume or smoke is black on top, its not pure silk. If the smoke emits a synthetic smell, its not pure silk. Pure silk will have clean white smoke and there is no stringy synthetic 'melt' from the burnt fringe. Good Luck with it! 

Turkish rugs. There are carpets (tufted) and there are kilims (non-tufted). The tribal designs are the exquisite pieces and are a challenge to identify the best that caught your eyes.

Do you believe in "Flying carpet"? There it is......

This is not a Turkish carpet! It's actually an 80 year old Tabrez (Persian) carpet. Look at the magnificent colors and conditions    of this piece. If and when you get a good handmade natural carpet, your 'heirloom' would remain in pristine condition for many generations to admire and appreciate. A wonderful "wool on cotton"masterpiece.  

The Turks call this a seccede (sejede) size and design. This is normally used as a prayer mat but can be put elsewhere or on the wall. Look at the natural brown color in the centre which could have come from a tree or fruit. No two pieces can be the same due to the inconsistency of the natural dye.The design incorporate a chandelier which form a big part of the Turks's life.  

Another secede design and size which also incorporate a chandelier design. 

The gorgeous green color on this "wool on cotton" carpet originated from a chestnut tree! This piece is normally hang on the wall for the beauty to really "come out".   

Another chandelier design carpet but with intricate detailing on the border .

A large silk on cotton piece but the photo did not do justice to this piece. It has a beautiful blue centrepiece accompanied by a bouquet. And of course, the color will change its hue as you move around it.

A tribal rug from the Kurdistan region. It is so unique and would add colors to any part of your home

Another tribal rug from Kurdistan, spun from wool yarn and may have taken months for the maker to finish the piece. Look at its unusual design and colors.

I am sure you can 'feel' how soft this "silk on silk" carpet is. It is really gorgeous and cost quite a lot,too. But one only need to get one good piece like this and that's it....you're done for life. There was however, one expat who actually acquired 17 pieces of carpets here before he was eventually transferred to another country! When you have acquired the taste for it, it'll grow on you and nothing will make you happier than to look at all these beauties.

Another beautiful design of "wool on cotton" carpet. The contrasting colors make it even more interesting and exciting.

This is another "silk on cotton" carpet but I really think the design is "too busy" or "too crowded". Maybe you might have a different opinion,huh?

My all time favorite and I'd always thought this design is truly Turkish until I was told that it actually originated from the border of Iran. This "1001 nights" design are so called because each small rectangle in the design depicts a night out of the 1001 nights legend. Meaning, each rectangle tells a different story as according to the 1001 nights legend. 

1001 nights "silk on cotton" carpet. This truly is a beautiful piece and I wish I could have it for my private collection. I already have a place for it in my mind and in my house,really! If only the price could match my fantasy!!! A good 1001 nights silk carpet could fetch more than US$20,000 a piece, depending on various factors. But on the display of any good carpet shops, you will always see this design being hung as a centerpiece...and it sure will temp you to go inside the shop to see it.

A very unique Anatolian kilim made of organic wool. The pastel spring color is so beautiful and could be put anywhere you want in your house or office. You sure will be the envy of many and it sure will be a conversation topic on many occasions. Someone told me once that, money one can find....but good artifacts or products you can't find all the time. This is one such product that one should not miss !

So, how do you make sure that you're going home with real, authentic Turkish carpets? Get a reliable seller, and do a research on it. I found a  few sellers who were willing to share their knowledge and I would seek them whenever I want to buy a piece. 

One seller that I discovered recently even had a showroom in my country a few years back. So it seems that almost all tourists from my country would flock to his shop as they feel secure in knowing that what they bought from him are genuine and authentic enough and they know that they can always go back to him should there be any problem. His clients are mostly people from all walks of life and I feel secure and happy enough to deal with him because I could see that he is very passionate with his pieces and loves what he is doing. The photos in this post were taken from his shop and you can browse more on his website CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE.  

  

Simsek's store in the Grand Bazaar. He would personally go to the provinces to collect the rugs and that explains why his collections are unique and exquisite. He can tell you more of the pieces over cay or turkish kahve without any obligation whatsoever. It is so important for you to understand about Turkish carpets before you buy them. Then, you'll be happier with your purchases.

Trying to figure out which 1001 nights is better. He also showed me "Made in China" 1001 nights as compared to Turkish made 1001 nights. The former are lighter, shinier and has more luster as explained in this posting. Frankly, before meeting Simsek, my natural tendency was to  for the former. Now I know better.

This tribal rug is so irresistible.....should I get one for myself?? It'll look gorgeous in the Study.....but hey, I don't have a Study !

Ohh....my object of desire.....1001 nights......now...which bank should I break ???

In Turkey, most young ladies in the villages would make a carpet as their dowry when they get married. Normally, these are in a form of a prayer mat but they also do other type of rugs. And each province will have their unique design or colors to signify their culture or even historical events. So..expect to hear Hereke, Ousak, Kayseri, Anatolian, Konya rugs and others when you scout for your pieces. And while you are at it...learn some history behind the pieces 'cos you are expected to repeat them when you invite your guests to view your beautiful Turkish carpets...isn't that fun?? So..have you got yours, yet?

Coming Soon : Look out for my posting on "Turkish Porcelain".......Stay Tuned......