Monday, April 16, 2012

Tour of Turkey 2 - Pamukkale/Heirapolis


If ever you found yourself in Istanbul (or Turkey) and was wondering where would be a good place to visit, I'd propose that you spare 3 days and go to Efes, Pamukkale and Cappadocia (Kapadokya) but not necessarily in that order!

The first two has within it a UNESCO World Heritage site while Kapadokya is just as overwhelming and is really a "must-see" before we all 'kick the bucket' or at least should be in our 'bucket-list'. Only then, can you consider your tour of Turkey as complete...given a short time that you have. Alternatively, you can take a cruise to these beautiful places. That is...if you are not spooked by the "100 year-celebration of the sinking of the Titanic". Though..i still don't see how one can celebrate such tragedy.

Pamukkale is about 3 hour drive away from Ephesus (Efes) but you won't feel the distance since it will be a scenic drive with beautiful sprouting flowers and mountain view. There were many erik (plum) and sefteli (peaches) blossom and the good news is that..the cherry blossoms are also beginning to sprout! Yes...spring is finally here to stay! I can't explain enough how beautiful the cherry blossoms are and there is even a village called "Kirazkoy" meaning "Cherry Village".

Pamukkale basically means "Cotton Castle". Err..really? Why? You will understand this as you approached it. You will see a white 'scar' on the ridge (of the hill) and at a distance,  it seems like as if the hill has a serious case of erosion (scarring) except that it is white in color. When you get nearer, you'll notice how white and pure the 'scar' is and it is actually gleaming in the sun. So much so that it looks like cotton....hence it's name "Cotton Castle".

Turkey has thousands of thermal springs but the most famous thermal spring is here, in Pamukkale. The thermal spring is unique because it is actually a thermal pool with gleaming white calcium formation (travertine pools). It is reputed to be curative and therapeutic and millions have thronged to this calcium pool to see and experience its magical (and mineral) healing power. There were so many visitors that the pool was under the threat of abuse and erosion and today, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and steps are taken to control and protect the pool. Now, the public are not allowed to bathe or wade in the calcium pool anymore. 

But...all is not lost! You can still swim and have a dip in the "Cleopatra Pool" which is just metres away from the Heritage site. But please be warned that you have to pay TL25 for a 2 hour swim or dip and the charge is not normally in your package tour price..so be prepared with your own towels, swimsuit, flip-flop and all necessities....and have fun!


The view from our hotel in Kushadasi. This would be a landing point for Cruise Liners going to other places such as Greece and Other European cities. Pigeon is a symbol of Kushadasi and there is a statue of it to the left of the photo. 
View of the travertine pool as you approached the town of Pamukkale. Its all white and that was how the town got its name...Cotton Castle.



As was explained at the end of my posting, our Guide for the day was not an effective guide. He was miles in front of us while we were busy taking shots. As such, I am not so sure what this is but I believe its the remnants of the City Wall built to protect the city during the Byzantine.

I believe this is the ancient Roman Bath. Beyond it is the huge "necropolis" i.e cemetery which extended a few kilometres to the north. Heirapolis was a cure center founded circa 190BC by Aumenes II, King of Pergamum. Hierapolis is actually a Health Spa and  to accomodate the 'unsuccessful' patients, it  also built Necropolis ( cemetery) so that the dead can be buried just a few kilometres away !! So..that solve any logistic problem that might arise from the popular spa!



The UNESCO World Heritage Travertine (thermal) pool of Pamukkale. A brown and almost dried up pool...a far cry from its former white and turquoise glory! Human have threatened its beauty and now steps are taken to ensure that the pool will return to its former glory. It still is breathtaking.....nonetheless.... 
How it used to be.....in all its grandeur...and when the public were allowed to wade in it...
(Images from Google Images)




Look at the white calcium deposits...its these minerals that are so potent and act as a healing medium to millions of people, thousands of years ago and till today. The calcium deposits are really beautiful to look at and it felt almost miraculous to be standing there and savoring the magnificent scenery on this fresh spring day...  someone should really do a research on the people living around the area. Are they healthier....youthful...more energetic and rejuvenated....any sign or clue that these thermal pools are really effective and curative ?? 



Against all odds, I managed to capture the beautiful turquoise hue of the pool. The color is really magnificent and it really fills you with wonder at this wonderful creation that God and Mother Nature has given. Go see it before it deteriorate....which I hope, will never happen.
Breathtaking, don't you think ?? Imagine being here on a quiet, secluded, cool breezy and fresh  spring day....priceless !!  




Walking on yet another World Heritage Site.....this time on the way to the Cleopatra Pool....ahh..there goes one item in my 'bucket list' he he....wish you were here !!!



So..what is so special about the Cleopatra Pool? Firstly, it is so called because it was believed that Cleopatra and Mark Anthony came and swim in the pool. And why did they come here? Because the pool was reputedly able to cure many skin aliments, rejuvenate and make you younger (aha..) and cure other health problems.  The Roman built a large Spa city ( Heirapolis) here and the pools are their means to cure the "uncurables" who have been turned away from the health centers or hospitals (and left to die) at that time. Don't forget, we are talking a timeline during Roman time...way before Christianity or even Islam came into the picture. And that..probably lured the beautiful Cleopatra and her lover here....or was it the effect of the pool that made her beautiful?? Hmm....don't you wonder, too? 

So...go to Pamukkale, have a good lunch and then...take a dip or swim in the "Cleopatra Pool". That would be the highlight of your trip to Pamukkale (after looking at some ruins within the site). You must take a dip....the water in the calcium pool was believed to have originated from this pool. Where the water gushes into the pool, it creates a Jacuzzi effect and if you breathe in the vapor, you will realise how refreshing it is and that it tastes like a carbonated drink. Really...I'm not kidding you. I was down with cold (flu) on that day and it cleared up after I had a dip in the "Cleopatra Pool". You may say ....ahh...it's all in my mind but I did actually felt rejuvenated and err..younger! Hey...I must make sure that the TL25 was worth every kurush of it !!

We had a great trip but were unfortunate to have gotten a "guide from hell". I knew we gonna have problem when he said that the Turks built the Hagia Sophia! It is so important to have a good guide 'cos otherwise it could spoil your whole trip. I pitied the other tourists who were in my group and had to endure the guide. There are many Tour Agency company at the Sultan Ahmed area (Old City) and i'm sure like me, you too would not have a clue as to which to choose. I can't tell you which Agency to choose but I can tell you which one to avoid. PM me for more information....  meanwhile...Go....go to Pamukkale and take that dip...you won't regret it....



The water that flow to the Travertine Calcium Pool is believed to have originated from here. Look at the crystal clear water that one can actually drink from. At a temperature of 39 Degree Celsius, it is almost at a body temperature and  this is why it is so perfect! Plus, it is of an almost neutral Ph value at its best !! 


You can actually drink out of this pump (at the Cleopatra Pool) if  you want to. It tastes just like the sparkling mineral water and  that's what it is actually.


Peak tourist season.....don't think you can even swim in here now..(Image from Google Images)

The Cleopatra Pool. There are some sunken columns and other ruins in the water (destroyed during earthquakes) and we were startled initially....thinking that it was a BIG snake in the water. When we were there, it was not a full tourist season yet, so we had the pool all (almost) to ourselves !!



The serenity of the Cleopatra Pool...with its sunken columns and ruins for you to sit and relax and don't forget to wash your face with the water. You'll be ten years younger after your 2 hour dip or swim...

OK...so we didn't look younger after the dip in the Cleopatra Pool but only because the guide cheated us one hour out of the time allocated...shish....but we felt rejuvenated...and my cold cleared up the following day...not bad, not bad at all !!

See Reviews on "Cleopatra Pool" HERE and HERE

Footnote :

My niece was here for a holiday and had gone back home recently. She mentioned something interesting that I wanna share with you readers.

She said that while waiting in front of the Haghia Sophia, she was approached by two ladies (most probably gypsies) asking for some loose change. She didn't react and didn't handout any money to them. She simply ignored them. But she was very certain that when the ladies walked away from her, they were making a sound that sounded like a curse towards her.

And true enough...later on, she was 'conned' or 'sweet-talked' by a trader into buying something but on an inflated price! She figured that it was the price she had to pay for the 'curse'. I'm not putting anything into this, but it does make me think. Many a time, when I handed out my loose change to these people, I could have sworn that I heard them 'blessing' me. Could it be that their 'prayers' are quickly answered? So...next time you're in Istanbul, just hand out your loose change to them...it might not mean a lot to you...but a world of difference to them.

And another thing...never, NEVER EVER buy anything in Istanbul from the 1st shop you enquired from. Go ask other shops first before deciding to part with your money. Istanbul traders are a 'pro' at playing the psychology game and you'll hand over your money after 10 minutes of them befriending you...especially in the Grand Bazaar! They have been traders for thousands of years...is it any wonder ??