Outta Istanbul -Turkish pottery treasures in the Grand Bazaar

Before I set foot in Istanbul, I'd always thought that tiles were always meant to be stepped on, on the floor! Well, okay..maybe some people would put some wall tiles on their bathroom or kitchen walls. So, when I first saw the beautiful blue tiles inside the Blue Mosque, I was really perplexed and mesmerized! Whoa..those are really beautiful tiles and they are on the walls, near the dome, cladding the column, framing the doors and windows and many many other unimaginable places....for a tile. Mind you...I was always taught to think out of the box! And the Byzantines and the Ottomans were way ahead of us, centuries ago. Gosh....I felt so small....knowing how advanced these ancient people were.

If you looked at the tiles on the walls of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and other great historical buildings, you'll notice that each tiles are assembled into big panels which will result in a 'picture' of its own. That mean, no two tiles are the same unless they were meant to be done in pairs. And during the Ottoman era, several motifs, designs and symbols were famous according to the history that was happening during that period. So, in a way, its a contemporary way of telling the world of her history as compared to the drawings and writings that we normally found in caves and other artifacts.   

It must have taken them years to complete a masterpiece that remain so magnificent until today for all to see. I suppose during the absence of TV and other entertainment media, one need to be kept amused and occupied and they probably did the masterpieces at a rate of an inch a day!You don't think so? Okay..maybe a foot a day, more reasonable,yes? 

Now, while we are familiar with the splendor of Chinese potteries, Turkish potteries have not been given the same limelight until recently. Frankly, before arriving here, me too have not heard of Turkish potteries or of its magnificence and significance. Yeah..we are all guilty of being ignorant...or was it naive? Why am I saying this? Because by now, I am "hooked" on Turkish tiles and potteries and everything in between. I guess you'll have to be here in order to appreciate and value them. It sort of grew on you. First, you'll see one piece. Then you'll think to yourself...arghh...what a loud color! Then you see another...and you'll think..hmm, not bad. And another...hmmm....that...I like. Before you knew it, you'll have dozens in your home, strategically placed on the sideboard, on the fireplace, on your centre table, in the display cabinet etc. etc. And you'll quietly stash your hubby's old cologne and lotions away so that you can put that cute porcelain-kitten on the dresser...viola!! And...you always have guests over for dinner to show off your beautiful white-blue-green potteries. Well....you know what they say...if you have it, .....!!

This photo and the subsequent 9 photos were taken from the Topkapi Palace. Iznik tiles are superior as compared to the others because it has quartz in it which made them very strong and durable. Iznik tiles of at least 80% quartz are put on external walls as they are hardy enough to withstand any extreme weather and other threatening exposures. Find that hard to believe? Well....these tiles that you are looking at now have been there since the 15th century. Of course, some had to undergo some restoration works but most of them were the original pieces. Don't you find that fascinating? If we put them on our walls, they'll be there for at least 6 or 7 generations to appreciate...wow!!  

I simply loveeeee these  tiles framing the door. I can't be sure now what was written in the  Arab character (Jawi) but I am not mistaken, it mentions the name of the Ottoman Sultans. But I could be wrong. But they are gorgeous, right ??

Inside the Baghdad Pavilion. 

Tiles lining the dome inside Baghdad Pavilion.

Notice how important and significant the tiles are...they're everywhere. And look at the beautiful calligraphy on top of the window.

Centuries old tiles adorning an 'ablution' fountain inside the Grand Bazaar. It is now used as a multi-purpose water feature for all to use.  

Enough of my rambling, now to a more serious note. Deep inside the Grand Bazaar, there is a shop that specialises in Iznik products. Iznik tiles and potteries are the Rolls-Royce of all Turkish potteries. It is sought after due to its quality and extinction. Extinction because Iznik (a place called Iznik) actually do not produce them anymore but for some handful Chini (masters) who still carried out the trade. 

This little 'jewel' of a shop is called Iznik-Art and it occupies 2 shops facing each other deep in Grand Bazaar. I went there twice and I couldn't find my way there again. And the GPS won't work either. But you'll notice the shop when you see it 'cos it has this beautiful wall panels at the front of the shop. You'll also notice that the potteries in this shop are matte finish as compared to the normal 'glazed' finish. According to the owner, the products are glazed but the finish is matte using their special technique. Seems that only they know how to do this special technique.


The following photos were taken from Iznik-Art shops and I will let you feast your eyes on the exquisite pieces and tell me......if like me, you now are beginning to see the beauty of Turkish potteries. Enjoy !!!   

READ MORE ABOUT IZNIK-ART HERE

READ MORE ABOUT THE FOUNDER-ISMAIL YIGIT   

Most of the Iznil potteries in Iznik-Art are reproduction of famous items. The motifs or designs on the items are sometimes copied from the garment worn by the Ottoman Sultans and others. Sometimes, the designs were copied from any personal items that was being used by the Sultans...be it swords, crowns, headgear, skirts, overcoat...but mostly from the garments.

Turquoise is a very popular color in Iznik potteries. This figure actually represent a garment worn by the Ottoman Sultans. If you visited the Topkapi Palace, you'll realise just how proud the Turks are towards this great piece of historical cloth. You will also realise that the items in this shop are matte finish. Look again at the tiles in Topkapi, they're shiny finished. But don't be mistaken, both are glazed, it's just that Iznik-Art used special technique to come out with the matte finish, which they claimed...is the only place where you can get them. Its for you to decide whether or not you like them matte or otherwise. 

These are single tiles. The price of a piece is quite high and as such, it is normally hang singly on the wall when not assembled into a panel. A piece could set you off for US$600 or US$700 ! You get the drift? But...you are bringing home a piece of history and a masterpiece. Now...that's priceless !!!! Not your Mastercard .....

It's also common to hang plates and bowls on the wall for all to see and appreciate it's beauty!

Nice and unique Calligraphy....

Closed up of a bowl with tulips (lale) motif. I'd say tulips are the most famous motifs on the potteries.

A panel of tiles being assembled. When this photo was taken, the panel was not yet completed.

These panels were actually an exact replica of the panels at the Topkapi Palace. I guess by now the assembly has completed and you could see these beautiful assemble inside The Grand Bazaar. I am sure it is a center of attraction to many who passed by. How much would a panel cost? At least US$6000 if I am not mistaken.It is roughly US$600 per tiles.

Ohhh....La La.....

Full collections of products available in the second shop ! Just make sure you do not bring your 3 year olds and below inside. Not that the items would break but I fear that the parents would have a heart attack should there be a minor 'accident'.

Yes....Martha Steward visited the shop when she visited Istanbul. 

Found your favorite pieces already ??

You don't need a lot....just one or two unique pieces that will surely be the centre of attraction and a conversation piece !

And ...I....love...this....!!

Ahhh.....shopping IS tiring, isn't it? Goodnight readers....wherever you are.....
sweet dream of turkish tiles and potteries.....if you want, you can just board the next plane to Istanbul, you know???


zzzzz.........zzzzzz.....zzzzzzz

Shopping ala Turka in Istanbul

People have various reasons for visiting Istanbul but the top popular reasons are sight-seeing and shopping and maybe the cuisine. Or..maybe after reading this Blog ha ha..lol....just to check if I was writing the truth about Istanbul. But then, my perspective is from someone who is living in Istanbul. It would differ a lot from a tourist's perspective but still is as exciting, I hope!

Today, let's talk about shopping in Istanbul. It's everybody's favorite subject, including yours truly. Turkey is an exciting place to go for shopping due to its location, historical events and its role as a manufacturers to many European products. Yes, Turkey manufactures a lot of products for its local consumption as well as for export to other European countries. A lot of  Designer products that you buy at those exclusive boutique from any European countries originated from Turkey, especially leather goods. Turkey has this special 'silk leather' where a silk leather jacket, when folded is lighter and less bulky than a normal cotton or wool jacket...go figure! Such is the quality of products that were made in Turkey. So...it is common to ask for Made In Turkey products when you shop in Istanbul. Not that we have any objection or prejudice against other products, but just make sure that you get genuine Turkish products when you are in Istanbul. Otherwise you could just sit in front of your computer and order from eBay, right?

Shopping in Istanbul in an art. As I mentioned earlier, it helps if you have a Poker face or thick or dark skin. All this will help to camouflage your true feelings as you negotiate over that nice piece of Iznik bowl. Never ever buy at the first offer of price and always, always check out few other shops before you actually make the purchase.

My experience tells me NOT to buy in the Grand Bazaar or any other Bazaars. It is always cheaper to buy from the shops outside the Bazaars. The reason is quite simple actually. At a rental of US15,000 per month, the shopkeepers have no choice but to pass the 'fixed cost' to the customers. How much more could they over-charge...you might ask. Well....how does two or three times sound to you? I had on several occasion, demanded a refund, demanded an exchange, from shops in The Grand Bazaar after discovering that they had over-charged me over a purchase. Most times, you must do a research before buying something, especially if its an investment piece.

Recently, I found a safe and satisfying place to shop for Turkish items. It is actually owned by the Culture and Tourism Department of Turkey and is situated very closed to the Spice or Egyptian Bazaar in Eminonu. Go and see the variety of things on sale around Istanbul if you want. Then, when you are ready to purchase, you'll be better off buying these items from this government-owned shop. You can rest assure that you'll get the most reasonable price, a genuine item and fully-backed by the Turkish government. And all products have a price tag and price is fixed. That sound 'safe' enough for you? They sell all sorts of things including kilim, carpets, porcelain, silverware, books and other souvenir items. And...most of all, nobody will hassle or bother you while you browse through the items before deciding to buy them. And..they have helpful and friendly staffs as well. The last time I was there, they gave me stacks of  CDs of Turkish music as gifts...nice..nice..!! Check them out, you can thank me later though other traders might scorn at me for letting the cats out of the bags..... oh oh...I am so NOT going to be popular...after this.....

The Culture Center Shop that sells everything Turkish, with a price tag! Check out this shop first before you make any purchases as this shop is backed by the Turkish Government. You can be assured of its genuity and fair prices. 

As you come out of the Eminonu Station, take the tunnel and take the middle staircase. Walk behind Yeni Camii and turn towards your right as if going towards the Spice Bazaar. The Culture Center shop should be to your left. No tourist bus as the roads are not open to cars before 6pm. Browse all you like, nobody will hassle you.

View inside the shop. It has everything that a tourist want. Porcelain being a difficult items to buy as we could never find out the true cost of the products. But here, the products are priced fairly according to its quality and other factors.

I am sure that you'll be mesmerized by the beautiful collections just as I was. If you think that the items are too big or heavy to brought back by plane, they can arrange to ship them them to your home either via air or sea. No problem..sorun yok !!! 

See ?? The staffs are professional and won't bother you at all. What a relief from all those "calls' in the bazaars...

They have good collection of books on Turkish history, arts & crafts..in fact, anything Turkish! Some are available in english. You can even read the books first before deciding whether to buy or not. 

They sell authentic tribal and ethnic kilims with beautiful designs. And all are reasonably priced.

Upstairs, they have nice collections of kilims and carpets that came from all over the continents in Turkey. You can choose from wool, cotton or silk materials. And in such a peaceful environment without any salesman trying to confuse you with many details. Why..they don't even offer you turkish tea...just plain selling with no veiled charm.

This captivating wool kilim can be yours for a mere TL250. That is a good price going at Istanbul's standard!

This big (10ft x 6 ft) wool on wool kilim from Konya will set you back at TL850! And there are many more similar kilim of different designs but of the same price. A good silk on silk kilim of this size will cost about TL2700 here....

While the tourists normally shop along the tram line in the Old City, the locals normally do their shopping inside and behind this normal tourist route. You see, if you took the tram to go to The Grand bazaar from the other side, you'll feel as if they are far apart. Actually, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar is interconnected from within the internal sokak (lane). You can actually walk up to the Grand Bazaar from the Spice Bazaar! And all along this lanes, there'll be shops selling almost everything that you'll need but at a fraction of a price that you'll be paying at the Bazaars or along the tram line.

Be warned that if you found yourself in these sokak (lanes), buy anything that caught your fancies because there are so many lanes and sub-lanes, you'll never find that same shop again. There are thousands of shops and to make matters worse, the traders love (which I hate) to change the front (facade) of their shops with different items that you simply can't have a good reference of the shop from its look. The prices are reasonable here, that's why the locals buy from here. And there are also many wholesalers and it's a common sight to see people with big trolley bags buying for their business. Err..actually I was one of them, chugging along the lanes with my shopping trolley after spraining my muscle carrying a heavy and bulky purchase. The pain was excruciating, so much so that I thought I was having a heart attack!! But..did that stop me from shopping?? NOT !!!

Some tourists prefer to shop at the swanky Istinye Park for high-end goods...where you can get tax rebates or tax refunds immediately at the shopping centre...

Istinye Park is one of the latest high end shopping center in Istanbul but is not easily accessible as it is not connected to the METRO underground train and the buses are quite limited. As such..it is normally frequented by the local and nearby residents. Its a plus point for those who do not like crowded shopping centre.

Ortakoy is another popular tourist spot for leisure and shopping. You can also hop on one of the ferries for a Bosphorus cruise. It only cost TL10 for an hour cruise and you can have the opportunity of admiring the lovely water villas and great buildings by the Bosphorus. 

Or you can shop for exotic cars like this white (Lambo) beauty....hey Mister, I do envy you !!

Shopping along the tramline at The SultanAhmet area. Almost all tourists would take this route to do their shopping without realising that parallel to this road, behind the fancy buildings...are where the actual buying and selling activities are taking place. 

See what I meant? This is where the locals do their shopping at a local price. You just need to know a little bit of their language and you'll blend in with them. Some shopkeepers can even speak English. Ask them to show you the price on their small calculator as it is also common for them to 'change' the price the moment they realised that you are a Yabanci (foreigners). I found the traders here easier to deal with and are genuinely friendly and helpful. I guess because business is so good here, they don't have time to scam or plot a plan to scam. Come here anytime of the day, any day and you'll notice that it is always full of people.

To reach this shopping "hole", exit through Gate 18 of The Grand Bazaar. Then, simply walk down

along the terrain of the hill. There will be numerous sub-lanes but eventually, you'll reach the Spice Bazaar. That is..if you still have money to spare after going through these irresistible shops.   

Ran out of cash? Nothing to worry about..there's always an automatic teller machine for you to get more 

Romantic bedcovers for the wedding or simply for your daily usage? There's plenty to choose from in the color of the rainbow. They're affordable,too. So, no need to save them for special days, you can use them everyday.

You can even get a wedding dress here. And there are also many accessory shops that cater for dressmaking and any other tailoring services. And many more specilised shops selling laces, embroideries and other products that I don't even know the names of. 

Lingerie anyone? These will end up in a boutique somewhere at triple or four times the original price here.

Embroidered table place set? They are so beautiful, when I first saw them, I thought they were headwear!

Shoppers caught in a sudden rain. Miraculously, many men will appear to offer umbrellas at TL5 each. But business resume as usual and no rain can stop them. Or me ha ha...

More embroidered and lacy table set. Careful there...if you set the table so nicely, your guests might not want to go home.... 

Evening dresses fit for Cinderella......

Beautiful dresses and gowns at a fraction of a price....

This shop specialises  in "kuna" ceremony items. Seems that the night before the bride solemnise a wedding, she'll have a night whereby she'll be decorated and adorned in this beautiful attire while "henna" tattoo will be applied on her body and hands. One last "fun night" before she enters the world of matrimony. Well, the westerners have the "stag" party, the Turks have their "kuna" party.

More products and items to be used for the "kuna" ceremony.

Little boys would cringe on seeing this shop, I guess. Why? Because these are costumes to be worn when they have their "circumcision" ceremony. When they come of age, the male Turks will undergo a big ceremony to mark the circumcision event. They will treated like "king" or "prince" for the day and decked up with this beautiful ceremonial robes. This is to mark their journey forward into adulthood. I can assure you, the boys really look 'handsome' in their costume.

Ahhh...more gowns and wedding dresses....so many choices and only one wedding...arghh....

You have reached the Spice Bazaar area. This sokak is right behind the Spice Bazaar. This where you can get the best and cheapest lokum or turkish delights, all sorts of nuts and other products. 

Noticed the man with a big basket on his back? Well....if ever your purchases become too heavy for you to carry, you can 'hire' him to carry your purchases at a small fees. Frankly, this is one scene that I could not bear to see. I know he's earning an honest living but my heart still bleeds when I see them.

Ohhh...lovely Van cat on leash! What a beautiful thing.....but she's on leash...she was actually scared of me when I approached her initially.

Took some time and some coaching before she allowed me to come this close. What beautiful way to end my day!!

Please note that the locals normally pay installments for their purchases. You'll notice that on the price tag, there'll be 2 prices printed on it. The higher one is for the installment payment. If you paid by cash, you should be paying the cheaper price. Likewise, if there is no price tag (which is more likely) then, ask for discount of at least 10% if you paid by cash. Most times, they'll be happy to oblige.

Finally, if you need to ship back your bulky purchases, make sure they pack the right items as its very common for them to ship a different item though I couldn't confirm if this was done intentionally or otherwise. Just be more careful and alert and after that....just enjoy your shopping experience in Istanbul !!

FOOTNOTE :

I was shopping along the Gulhane tramline when I noticed that many people were taking photos underneath this tree. Upon checking around (yeah..nosy Parker) they told me that few hundred years ago, convicts were hanged to death from this tree. What a significant tree....I hope I didn't get nightmares after taking this shot.....there is now a Juvenile Court right across this tree. Perhaps the Judge will point out the tree to the Juvenile convicts and remind them of the outcome if they didn't behave!