Thursday, May 10, 2012

Istanbul is Blooming - Flowers and Tulips

It's that time of the year again! Spring is definitely here and Istanbul is blooming with beautiful flowers, particularly the tulips (Lale). In fact, Istanbul had just concluded its 7th. Istanbul Tulip Festival which was started in April 1st and ended in April 30th.

For many of you readers out there who were not aware of this fact, tulips originated from Turkey and in the 17th. Century, one of the Ottoman's Sultans gave some to Netherlands, who in turn converted it into a multi-billion industry! But it does not mean that the Turks do not value their tulips. In fact, Sultan Ahmet III loved the tulips so much that his ruling period was popularly known as the "Tulip Era or Lale Devri, 1718-1730" where tulips were incorporated into many things. There's tulips motifs in their gown and garments, porcelains, tiles, carpets, textiles..almost everything. Tulips appear in many calligraphy designs as the Turks pointed out that the symbol of tulips actually spells out the word "Allah" in Arabic character (Jawi). And "Allah" means "God" to the Muslim, Christians and Jews. Everybody exclaimed "Allah, Allah " here when they were baffled, shocked or angry....so as to calm themselves. And this include the Muslim, Christians or Jewish Turks alike! READ MORE ABOUT TULIPS HERE  AND  HERE AND HERE

However, it was only recently that the Turks started its "love affair" with the tulips again. Hence, the birth of the Tulips Festival seven years ago. It seems that they just realised that when they showed their appreciation and love towards the tulips....luck, prosperity and everything wonderful befall Turkey. In bringing back the glory of tulips, they are hoping that the glory of Turkey will return. With the advent of the Arab Spring and other global events, I think they have some truth in that thinking. Turkey is now seen as a big brother and 'model' country to many troubled and emerging countries and some events globally are showing a positive growth and perception towards Turkey. Maybe the tulips did bring some "luck" to Turkey !!

And...as usual, me being human...we always take things for granted. Just as the Turks took their tulips for granted for centuries ago! When they were in full bloom, I forgot to take the photos and only when they were about to wilt, did I realised how beautiful they really are...or were. The tulips here are so big that they looked unreal, almost as if they were plastics. Believe me.. they are real and alive and beautiful. And they come in all the colors of the rainbow. Remember...black is also the color of a rainbow! So..here's wishing you  colorful days ahead of you....wherever you are !!

Since I believe that at times..or most times....a picture speaks a thousand words...so it shall, today. Just feast your eyes on these beautiful and colorful chichek (flowers) and don't forget to praise our Maker for such splendid blooms.....Thank you, God.

Along the Gulhane Tram station in The Old City


















At The Sultan Ahmet area along the tram line










I think either the planter is color-blind or he loves 'diversity'....the colors are all mixed-up...
along Tarabya Main Road








Some people commented that they look unreal and plastic-like but they certainly are real and alive...



At the entrance to a Park, Tarabya







Pure white tulips...
















Blue sensation at Topkapi Palace but...I don't know what it is...is it Begonia?




Little Aishah was thrilled to capture the beauty....who wouldn't?




Along Gulhane tramline at The Old City










Purplish-white tulips.....














Haghia Sophia amidst the flowers and Tulips....








These 2 girls requested me to take their fotos but I forgot to ask for their email to send to them,
so I hope they'll get to see it here





Near the Blue Mosque in The Old City





In front of the Blue Mosque





I was told that this is a Judas Tree. So called because Judas hanged himself from this tree after he betrayed Jesus Christ. Nonetheless, it still is a beautiful flaming purple or lilac bloom.
READ MORE ON JUDAS TREE HERE





The Judas tree, the harbinger of spring, belongs to İstanbul as to no other city in the world, and it has started to bloom, changing the color of İstanbul into a quintessential purple. Bosporus seems more beautiful with every spring.(PHOTO: AA, İBRAHİM YAKUT) 
Photo and caption borrowed from 
http://www.turkeycentral.com/topic/14010-iconic-judas-tree-graces-bosporus-with-blossoms/ 





"Tree of Life" all along the Bosphorus. This what makes Bosphorus so spectacular in spring or summer. The "tree of life" symbol is commonly used in the design on carpets and other crafts.


"Tree of Life"


Beautiful lilac flowers to soothe your eyes while waiting in line to get into the Bassilica Cistern at The Old City







Tulips along The Bosphorus




Along The Bosphorus










 


Footnote :


Meet Meenah, my new friend for Spring! She'll come and perch on my window sill everyday. She would not fly away even when i opened the window to put some breads and water for her.



Hi Meenah !!





Monday, April 16, 2012

Tour of Turkey 2 - Pamukkale/Heirapolis


If ever you found yourself in Istanbul (or Turkey) and was wondering where would be a good place to visit, I'd propose that you spare 3 days and go to Efes, Pamukkale and Cappadocia (Kapadokya) but not necessarily in that order!

The first two has within it a UNESCO World Heritage site while Kapadokya is just as overwhelming and is really a "must-see" before we all 'kick the bucket' or at least should be in our 'bucket-list'. Only then, can you consider your tour of Turkey as complete...given a short time that you have. Alternatively, you can take a cruise to these beautiful places. That is...if you are not spooked by the "100 year-celebration of the sinking of the Titanic". Though..i still don't see how one can celebrate such tragedy.

Pamukkale is about 3 hour drive away from Ephesus (Efes) but you won't feel the distance since it will be a scenic drive with beautiful sprouting flowers and mountain view. There were many erik (plum) and sefteli (peaches) blossom and the good news is that..the cherry blossoms are also beginning to sprout! Yes...spring is finally here to stay! I can't explain enough how beautiful the cherry blossoms are and there is even a village called "Kirazkoy" meaning "Cherry Village".

Pamukkale basically means "Cotton Castle". Err..really? Why? You will understand this as you approached it. You will see a white 'scar' on the ridge (of the hill) and at a distance,  it seems like as if the hill has a serious case of erosion (scarring) except that it is white in color. When you get nearer, you'll notice how white and pure the 'scar' is and it is actually gleaming in the sun. So much so that it looks like cotton....hence it's name "Cotton Castle".

Turkey has thousands of thermal springs but the most famous thermal spring is here, in Pamukkale. The thermal spring is unique because it is actually a thermal pool with gleaming white calcium formation (travertine pools). It is reputed to be curative and therapeutic and millions have thronged to this calcium pool to see and experience its magical (and mineral) healing power. There were so many visitors that the pool was under the threat of abuse and erosion and today, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and steps are taken to control and protect the pool. Now, the public are not allowed to bathe or wade in the calcium pool anymore. 

But...all is not lost! You can still swim and have a dip in the "Cleopatra Pool" which is just metres away from the Heritage site. But please be warned that you have to pay TL25 for a 2 hour swim or dip and the charge is not normally in your package tour price..so be prepared with your own towels, swimsuit, flip-flop and all necessities....and have fun!


The view from our hotel in Kushadasi. This would be a landing point for Cruise Liners going to other places such as Greece and Other European cities. Pigeon is a symbol of Kushadasi and there is a statue of it to the left of the photo. 
View of the travertine pool as you approached the town of Pamukkale. Its all white and that was how the town got its name...Cotton Castle.



As was explained at the end of my posting, our Guide for the day was not an effective guide. He was miles in front of us while we were busy taking shots. As such, I am not so sure what this is but I believe its the remnants of the City Wall built to protect the city during the Byzantine.

I believe this is the ancient Roman Bath. Beyond it is the huge "necropolis" i.e cemetery which extended a few kilometres to the north. Heirapolis was a cure center founded circa 190BC by Aumenes II, King of Pergamum. Hierapolis is actually a Health Spa and  to accomodate the 'unsuccessful' patients, it  also built Necropolis ( cemetery) so that the dead can be buried just a few kilometres away !! So..that solve any logistic problem that might arise from the popular spa!



The UNESCO World Heritage Travertine (thermal) pool of Pamukkale. A brown and almost dried up pool...a far cry from its former white and turquoise glory! Human have threatened its beauty and now steps are taken to ensure that the pool will return to its former glory. It still is breathtaking.....nonetheless.... 
How it used to be.....in all its grandeur...and when the public were allowed to wade in it...
(Images from Google Images)




Look at the white calcium deposits...its these minerals that are so potent and act as a healing medium to millions of people, thousands of years ago and till today. The calcium deposits are really beautiful to look at and it felt almost miraculous to be standing there and savoring the magnificent scenery on this fresh spring day...  someone should really do a research on the people living around the area. Are they healthier....youthful...more energetic and rejuvenated....any sign or clue that these thermal pools are really effective and curative ?? 



Against all odds, I managed to capture the beautiful turquoise hue of the pool. The color is really magnificent and it really fills you with wonder at this wonderful creation that God and Mother Nature has given. Go see it before it deteriorate....which I hope, will never happen.
Breathtaking, don't you think ?? Imagine being here on a quiet, secluded, cool breezy and fresh  spring day....priceless !!  




Walking on yet another World Heritage Site.....this time on the way to the Cleopatra Pool....ahh..there goes one item in my 'bucket list' he he....wish you were here !!!



So..what is so special about the Cleopatra Pool? Firstly, it is so called because it was believed that Cleopatra and Mark Anthony came and swim in the pool. And why did they come here? Because the pool was reputedly able to cure many skin aliments, rejuvenate and make you younger (aha..) and cure other health problems.  The Roman built a large Spa city ( Heirapolis) here and the pools are their means to cure the "uncurables" who have been turned away from the health centers or hospitals (and left to die) at that time. Don't forget, we are talking a timeline during Roman time...way before Christianity or even Islam came into the picture. And that..probably lured the beautiful Cleopatra and her lover here....or was it the effect of the pool that made her beautiful?? Hmm....don't you wonder, too? 

So...go to Pamukkale, have a good lunch and then...take a dip or swim in the "Cleopatra Pool". That would be the highlight of your trip to Pamukkale (after looking at some ruins within the site). You must take a dip....the water in the calcium pool was believed to have originated from this pool. Where the water gushes into the pool, it creates a Jacuzzi effect and if you breathe in the vapor, you will realise how refreshing it is and that it tastes like a carbonated drink. Really...I'm not kidding you. I was down with cold (flu) on that day and it cleared up after I had a dip in the "Cleopatra Pool". You may say ....ahh...it's all in my mind but I did actually felt rejuvenated and err..younger! Hey...I must make sure that the TL25 was worth every kurush of it !!

We had a great trip but were unfortunate to have gotten a "guide from hell". I knew we gonna have problem when he said that the Turks built the Hagia Sophia! It is so important to have a good guide 'cos otherwise it could spoil your whole trip. I pitied the other tourists who were in my group and had to endure the guide. There are many Tour Agency company at the Sultan Ahmed area (Old City) and i'm sure like me, you too would not have a clue as to which to choose. I can't tell you which Agency to choose but I can tell you which one to avoid. PM me for more information....  meanwhile...Go....go to Pamukkale and take that dip...you won't regret it....



The water that flow to the Travertine Calcium Pool is believed to have originated from here. Look at the crystal clear water that one can actually drink from. At a temperature of 39 Degree Celsius, it is almost at a body temperature and  this is why it is so perfect! Plus, it is of an almost neutral Ph value at its best !! 


You can actually drink out of this pump (at the Cleopatra Pool) if  you want to. It tastes just like the sparkling mineral water and  that's what it is actually.


Peak tourist season.....don't think you can even swim in here now..(Image from Google Images)

The Cleopatra Pool. There are some sunken columns and other ruins in the water (destroyed during earthquakes) and we were startled initially....thinking that it was a BIG snake in the water. When we were there, it was not a full tourist season yet, so we had the pool all (almost) to ourselves !!



The serenity of the Cleopatra Pool...with its sunken columns and ruins for you to sit and relax and don't forget to wash your face with the water. You'll be ten years younger after your 2 hour dip or swim...

OK...so we didn't look younger after the dip in the Cleopatra Pool but only because the guide cheated us one hour out of the time allocated...shish....but we felt rejuvenated...and my cold cleared up the following day...not bad, not bad at all !!

See Reviews on "Cleopatra Pool" HERE and HERE

Footnote :

My niece was here for a holiday and had gone back home recently. She mentioned something interesting that I wanna share with you readers.

She said that while waiting in front of the Haghia Sophia, she was approached by two ladies (most probably gypsies) asking for some loose change. She didn't react and didn't handout any money to them. She simply ignored them. But she was very certain that when the ladies walked away from her, they were making a sound that sounded like a curse towards her.

And true enough...later on, she was 'conned' or 'sweet-talked' by a trader into buying something but on an inflated price! She figured that it was the price she had to pay for the 'curse'. I'm not putting anything into this, but it does make me think. Many a time, when I handed out my loose change to these people, I could have sworn that I heard them 'blessing' me. Could it be that their 'prayers' are quickly answered? So...next time you're in Istanbul, just hand out your loose change to them...it might not mean a lot to you...but a world of difference to them.

And another thing...never, NEVER EVER buy anything in Istanbul from the 1st shop you enquired from. Go ask other shops first before deciding to part with your money. Istanbul traders are a 'pro' at playing the psychology game and you'll hand over your money after 10 minutes of them befriending you...especially in the Grand Bazaar! They have been traders for thousands of years...is it any wonder ??





Monday, March 26, 2012

Tour of Turkey 1 - Ephesus (Efes)


They say that "those who didn't learn History are bound to repeat the same mistakes". But not all histories come with mistakes! We should also learn history to learn about the best way and options to follow for our lives and others.

If History and archaeological knowledge and findings are your passion, then Turkey offers you a Mecca of opportunities. Turkey is one of the centers of civilisation and it is rich with places literally 'littered' with all these historical and ancient findings. Its earliest settlement has been recorded as early as 3000BC and coupled with its interesting 'conquerors' who brought with them, myriads of culture, knowledge and expertise-transfer, wealth and whatnots....you'll be thrilled to be able to walk on the same path that was a hive of activities more than 2000 years ago!  

I was...on those marbled-paved walkway that was used by the likes of Alexander the Great(in 334 BC) and Emperor Augustus! Not to mention, millions of other visitors from all over the world ever since this ancient Rome city was excavated and uncovered and open to the public. As we speak, more excavations and findings are being discovered as the archaeological excavations are underway continously till today. To be able to see and experience the actual place that you read about is really something out of this world. Well. at least to me.

Ephesus (near Izmir) is located next to the Aegean Sea though centuries ago, the sea was further inland, as far back as Selcuk town. However, silting of the sea brought forward the land and also the demise of the area as an important sea-port and trading center back then. However, the land left behind became a very fertile cultivation land and that explains why Izmir is considered as one of the 'garden' of Turkey since it supplies many vegetables and fruits to places like Istanbul.

The ruin of the ancient Roman City showcased a comprehensive city and give you a glimpse of the lives of the Roman people when they occupied Turkey and made it their capital for "Asia Minor".  It may be called "ancient" but there is nothing ancient about the city or their way of lives.

More than 2000 years ago and they already have theaters, "parliment", offices, shops, library, public toilet, paved walkway, underground water and sewer system, markets, terrace houses (really?) and even..wait for it...a brothel! Ahh....i knew that would catch your eyes...more on the brothel later!

The Romans came before the Byzantine and that why there were many temples among the ruins. Of course, you'll hear a lot of Hercules, Zeus and other Gods that were entombed in the magnificent columns, statues and any other buildings and structures. I'd recommend that you read about it first before making the trip as once you're there, there are simply no time to do anything else but to be amazed and mesmerised by  all those evidence of the "contemporary" ancient city.

It is also advisable for you to at least combine your trip to Ephesus with Pamukkale, which is just another 3 hour drive away from Ephesus. I will write about Pamukkale in my next posting. Meanwhile, I will let the photos "speak" a thousand word and hopefully, you too could get the awe and admiration that I felt as I walked those trodden pathways lined by white, blue and yellow marbles from Turkey, Iran and Iraq. Boy..the Romans are great builders and they really knew how to live and enjoy life....

You might wonder...what brought about the "ruins'? Well...first they were threatened by the silting of the sea, thereafter came a big earthquake that more or less....wipe out the entire city and its civilisation. Today, whenever new stones or evident is excavated out, they will try to piece out the jigsaw puzzle and maybe even make up more hypothesis about the great lives of the Roman people.

The latest finding was on late last year where they uncovered a mosaic-lined pathway in front of rows of terrace houses. I am already surprised to hear that they have terrace houses...let alone a mosaic-paved walkway in front of these houses. Even we can't afford such luxuries in our modern urban pavements!! Now..do you still think that "ours" is the most modern and civilised society???


The General Layout of the Ancient City. SAMSUNG sponsored the excavation of the area.






Part of the underground water system that was used to transport water for the city. Some broken clay pipes were also discovered together with this 'pond'.

Bath at The State Agora ( Market)

A 1400 seat "Odean" that was used for lectures, music performances and meetings for the councils. Built in AD 150, it even incorporate a small tunnel (at the top) to let the "late-comers" in without interrupting the lectures or shows.  The lower seats are actually of marble, obviously reserved for the VIPs.



Marble carving of the Winged Victory that was on the Hercules Gate. However, during my trip it was put somewhere else, possibly  for some restoration or maintenance work.

The Curetes Way leading to the more interesting places of interest.

The Romans built the statue of their leaders and Councilors along the Curetes Way till they reached the Gate of Hercules, where barriers were constructed thereafter to stop any charriots or carriages from going further. As is expected, leaders and councilors changed most of the time. This would require the replacement of the statues accordingly. To mitigate the problem,  only  the heads were changed  each time new faces joined the Council.

Close up of the colorful 5th. century mosaic pathway in-front of the Terrace Houses. A similar mosaic picture was also uncovered recently, believed to be of either Alexander The Great or a Roman Girl but the Turks call it Zeugma. This partially completed potrait of Zeugma has been used numerous time on paintings and other crafts.


The mosaic pathway in between the Terrace Houses (on the left) and The Curetes Way and the Temple of Hadrian (on the right). Note the interior of the Terrace Houses. The new structure in the background is actually offices/quarters for the workers doing the excavation works.

The front of the Terrace Houses. If one row of houses are facing one way, the other row will have their front facing in an opposite direction so that each row would have their own privacy. No "Nosy-Parker" neighbors looking right into your front door! Genius, don't you think? And these were built more than 2000 years ago !! 

Magnificent Corinthian-Style Temple of Hadrian. The Head of Medusa at the top is to protect from evil spirit. It was dedicated to Hadrian, Artemis and the people of Ephesus in AD 118 but was re constructed in the 5th. century. Across the street is the row of 10 Terrace Houses with the elaborate 5th. century mosaic pathway.  





Close up view of the elaborate and intricate friezes in the porch and the head of the Medusa on The Temple of Hadrian.


The "everlasting" motif found on the Temple of Hadrian. So...this is where Versace got the idea for his designs...cool..... 

The Library of Celsus. They used Architectural Trickery to create the "Optical Illusion" of the building so that the lower level looked as if they are higher than the top level and also to create an illusion so that the middle portion looked further apart than the other two ends. Genius...don't you think?? The library was used to store 12,000 scrolls in niches and around its wall. A 1 meter gap between the inner and outer wall help to preserve the scrolls from damage due to temperature and moisture. It was built by Consul Tiberius Julius Aquila who dedicated it to his father Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemeanus in 114 AD. Celsus was buried under the western side of the Library.

The gate of Augustus. The other side of the gate lead to an 110m square Agora (Market place) where trading of food and crafts are done. The gate was dedicated to the Emperor Augustus and his family. Apparently, the Romans like to 'relieve' themselves at the gate here, giving a new meaning to  the "those who piss (pass) here" !

The house where Mother Meryam (Virgin Mary) was believed to have spent her last few years of her life (AD 37 - Ad 45). It was reputed that she came here with St. John.  





Spring water well at the Meryemana ( Virgin Mary's House). Visitors can take or drink from this well. The water is understandably very fresh and refreshing.....just don't forget to bring an empty water bottle to fill it up with this spring water. Some people would also make a wish before drinking the water!


Explanation according to the Quran on Mother Meryam (Virgin Mary)



Signage explaining the The Baths at the State Agora.

Signage explaining the State Agora


The Odeon that sits 1,400 peopleThere is however a bigger theater called the Great Theater that could sit 24,000 people. The great theater is still being used for concert and Elton John had also performed there. The beauty of the theater is that the acoustic is so good, no microphone is required. In fact when we were there, someone played the song "Stairway to heaven" on his iPhone and we could hear the song clearly more than 300 metres outside of the theater. This superb acoustic was achieved by the design of the seats as well as a wall behind the platform / stage. 


The Public Toilet. But only for Men. The women's were built elsewhere. In the winter, the marble slab would be very cold. So, the Master would normally send his slave to the toilet to sit on the slab first. Once the slab is warm and comfortable enough, he would then use the toilet!! The sewer is built very deep down below so there is no stench emanating from  this 'very public' toilet. Actually, I have seen something like in China but I'm not sure who copied who...???


This was on the Sacred Way, facing towards the Library of Celsus. There is a footprint, a bee, a flower on the left of the footprint and something else to the right of the footprint. This discovery reinforces the belief that the "big house" with many rooms found across  The Library is indeed a Brothel. Those whose wants to visit the brothel will have to check his footprint here first. If his footprint is bigger than the print, then he is 'big' enough and can go get his "honey" (from the picture of the bees and flower) i.e to the prostitute. Otherwise, he'll have to turn right and maybe go to the library...!!  Some people said that that's the very reason why the library was built across the brothels. To give the men an alibi (going to the library) when in reality, they're going to the brothel...it's all about the oldest profession in history and the oldest excuse from a man...!!


The Ottoman empire (or Sultans) built more than 80,000 cami (mosques) across Turkey and most of them are quite distinguishable with its quarter dome and 4 or 5 minarets. Sultan Ahmet Camii (The Blue Mosque) is the only one with 6 minarets. However, this is one mosque that was built before the Ottoman time and it is called the Isa Bey Camii. As can be expected, it is way too modest compared to the grand and opulent cami so favored by the Ottoman Sultans. The above are actually tombstones of some famous people and those with the head that look like a head gear actually belong to the mosque or state officers. 

Stunned...mesmerised.....awed....admiration....to be walking on the same pathway that was used by the Romans more than 2000 years ago !! It was truly a walk to remember....a walk of a lifetime...




I know..all those ruins are not everybody's cup of tea, so after the few hours of walking and savoring the ruins, our guide took us to a carpet factory to see how carpets are made. This is cauldron of silkworms in hot water. The lady is spinning silk thread from the silkworms and these threads would be used to make a fine silk carpet. I was told that silk threads are stronger than most metals. Anyone out there want to dispute this?? 

The lady on the left is making wool carpet while the lady on the right is making silk carpet. Notice the sizes of the threads. That explains why silk carpets are more refine, softer and better looking than wool carpets. As such, silk carpets take longer time to complete as compared to wool. A normal wool carpet would take few months, depending on the size and pattern while while a good silk carpet could take years to make. That is how this factory calculate its cost. Its just a matter of multiplying this time in months with its fixed monthly cost. Its fixed monthly cost include the girl's salary, the raw material and other variables such as water and electricity.  I think I have finally found my "quest" for that elusive carpet's real cost. It really irks me when I don't  know how much is the true cost of a certain carpet 'cos the Seller can put any price and you haven't a clue of how to get the real value and cost of the carpet. Don't you? Now, I know the trick !!

Footnote :

To those of you who find this posting rather 'dry'.....I know, it's too much history and most people do not like to look back, for whatever reasons..I have something to 'jolt' your imagination here. I am very sure that you have heard of or even seen a Belly Dancer, right? Well...what would you say, if I said that there is also a MALE Belly dancer. You don't believe me? Look at these photos....cheeriooooo !!


Scene taken at Hodja Pasha Cultural Center Istanbul. 2 hours of Anatolian Cultural Show. This show by a male belly dancer caught everybody by surprise. The Turkish Belly dancing is a bit different from the Arabian Belly Dancing. While the Arab Belly Dancing is sensual, Turkish Belly dancing is more energetic and fast with loud drumming music. Hence, the muscle movement is faster and this guy moves the fastest! 

He got the loudest clap and even did an encore.....and I was even scolded by a big lady next to me for giggling. and that was after this guy had finished, mind you......sheeshhh

If you think belly dancing is sleazy...think again...at least not in Turkey.

See those expressions?? See how full of attentions they are? Actually...you're really enthralled by the muscle movement of the belly dancer. They are supposed to emulate the movement of a snake! One dancer did just that, with just a drum to guide her with her snake muscle movement...