Food Glory in Istanbul - Part 1

It's snowing as I punched my keyboard and since I can't go out now, I might as well write about something sizzling. No..no...not what you're thinking, don't hold your breath. Let's talk about food..glorious food in Istanbul. Now..breathe.... 

Being strategically located between the European, Asian (and Middle-Eastern) continents, Istanbul reap the benefit of all where food and cuisine is concerned. Since you can find Greeks, Georgians, Armenians, Russians, Kurdish, Syrians and etc etc, you can expect the same diversity in the food that you can find here. And like in many other places, foods in Istanbul are actually representation of other provinces in Turkey and its surrounding neighboring countries. There's always a story behind each dishes and if you are brave enough to ask, they're happy enough to tell all. 

Whatever you do...do NOT, I repeat...do NOT ask where did Baklava come from? The Greeks and the Turks will go blue in the face trying to defend the origin of Baklava. I got kicked under the table many times by my hubby whenever I started this sensitive question, so please be warned! Fact is..nobody knows, but there is a slight difference between baklava that came from Turkey, Greece or the Arab nations. For me, the best Baklava in Istanbul came from O*****y where it is still being made fresh daily using fragrant fire wood, with the pastry flake as thin as a cigar paper. It is so special to me that I won't even tell you where it is because I fear that over demand will spoil its quality. So...PM me if you really wanna know and you must make a promise not tell anyone. Scouts honor!

Kemal Ataturk played a big role in influencing the food in Turkey. Since Turkey was at war during that era, Kemal influenced them to make the dishes as simple and practical as possible but still delicious and meaningful. This is a stark difference to the usual meals prepared for the Ottoman Sultans which were normally elaborate and 'massive' with desserts alone prepared in more than a dozen types at one sitting. But the dishes are still prepared till this day and can be obtained from many shops or restaurants in the city.   

Most people would mistakenly think that Turkish foods are similar to Arabian foods. Turks don't eat rice as often as their Arab neighbors. Rice are normally used for filling in their dolma and in making rice pudding. They eat bread everyday, all the time. And they eat lots of salad, either fresh or cooked. 

Let's start with the cay (Turkish tea)! More Turks drink cay than coffee, in this tulip-shaped cup. Cay can be either 'strong' or 'weak'. and is always taken without milk. And cay is taken throughout the day. The cup is small, so they need to get a fresh one many times in a day. That mean, it'll remain hot when they take it. And...they don't have to go to the toilet too often because it's so little. See? How practical.

Turkish coffee. Do NOT take it on an empty stomach, esp. in the morning. It is prepared in an espresso cup (tiny cup)  and is so thick, at times..the spoon can stand on its own! And make sure you don't drink right till the end 'cos the coffee powders are there in the cup. Just 2 or 3 gulps will do the job.

Menenem...Turkish favorite breakfast dish. It's actually an extended omelet where onion, tomatoes, sucuk, cheese curds  are also thrown in and fried in olive oil. The way to eat it is to dip it with the bread that will be sent to your table. This is normally served straight from the tiny omelet-pan that it was cooked in.

My favorite "on the go" food. Balik ekmek literally mean Fish Sandwich. Its simply fried or grilled Uskumru fish  and put in between the ekmek (bread), plus some raw onions and salata (salad). You can also squeeze some lemon for taste. And then you pray that your mouth can open big enough to chomp down the contraption. And I mean really BIG. This innocent looking sandwich is actually very very tasty and do not be fooled by its humble and plain look. Looks can be deceiving most times, you know?

Midye Tava (Fried Mussel). This super delicious dish can be eaten in a restaurant as part of a dish or just eaten on the stick as you walk on Istiklal Caddessi (in Taksim). Do not walk too fast or too far, though...'cos I'm sure you'll go back to shop to buy more, really! Especially when the temperature drops to zero. Its worth getting the frost-bites on your fingers, don't you think?

Or....you can have your Midye Tava as a sandwich...whichever way you'd prefer..it still is as delicious !

Kumpir (Baked Potato) is a MUST if you are in Istanbul. And Ortakoy is one place where you should head to as the ambiance there is better since you'll see rows and rows of kumpir stall there. And it's so much fun watching the Seller trying to get you to buy their kumpir. What you see here are toppings for the kumpir. Yes..all of them. Depending on what you're ordering, you just point to them what toppings you want to go inside your kumpir. Or just say 'karisik' for mixed and you'll get all of them. Please note that 1 kumpir might weigh 1 kilo, so you might wanna share 1 kumpir with someone! It is BIGGGG...

Can you see the size of the kumpir? You must watch the way its being prepared. Upon splitting the kumpir open, the man will quickly and thoroughly mix cheese, butter and salt with the piping hot potatoes. Once all potatoes are mixed and caramelised, then you are invited to choose your toppings and sauces to be put on top of the melted cheese-potato-butter delight! It's heaven! After eating the kumpir, forget about dinner, 'cos you'll be full for a very long time. In fact, forget about breakfast, too !! ( Photo: Google Images)

Gozleme, thin bread filled with either cheese or spinach. Best when eaten hot and still crispy. In my previous posting about "Perth" I showed a modified Gozleme being sold there. They made it thicker with fillings but the real Gozleme is thin and crispy.

Ahh...Kokorec. Stuffed rolled lamb intestines. I have been told that it is very delicious but I am yet to try it out. Somehow, I could not bring myself to eat it, yet. It is very popular and you can see them being sold everywhere, esp. by the street. I am sure most of you readers out there would give it a try without any hesitation...Bravo! My..I do envy you...

Pide...Turkish National pride. A flat bread that you can put toppings on, just like you would a Pizza base. It is very popular especially during the Ramazan. There is also a another version  called Lahmacun whereby the base is very thin and grilled in furnace or kiln till crisp with toppings of your choice.  You must give them a try when you are next in Istanbul.

Edirne Ciger Tava. This was one dish where I let my nose directed me to the dish. We were walking in Edirne when a beautiful aroma caught our nose and we literally let our nose trail the aroma till we got to this shop. Apparently Edirne is famous for Ciger ( deep fried heart of a beef or lamb ) Tava. The marinade made the fried pieces smell so delicious that one simply can't resist the temptation to grab a chair and sample the dish. The soft and tender ciger is so delicious particularly when eaten its complementing raw onion and deep fried biber (green pepper or chillies).  It's available in istanbul, so you don't have to travel to Edirne to get it.

Closed-up of the deep-fried biber (pepper or chillies)

Closed-up of Ciger Tava ( deep-fried heart of beef or lamb)

My favorite kebab shop, Durumcu Raif Usta behind Grand Bazaar. Its the most authentic kebab shop, with no frills or pretense. You get chunks of the meat that you chosed and they will roll it in the durumcu ( thin bread) together with all the salata, grilled green chillies and bhaharat (spices). Its smoky, its warm and it tastes how kebab should taste like. Non-fancy shop where you take your seat, eat your kebab, pay and go. Its a bit daunting for ladies as not many ladies eat there but hey..take my words for it. Its worth every single Kurush of your money. I didn't even care if I was the only lady eating there. The pull of the Shish (lamb) kebab was too overpowering. It is SOOOOO ummpphhh !!  I'd say, the best in Istanbul...

You can have more salata or spices or chillies if you want. Being a regular, they know what I want and my Shish kebab is always perfect here. Hmm...I think I'll pay them a visit tomorrow....PM me for their address if you want. I can even give you the direction....then YOU tell me if it wasn't the best kebab you've ever had....

Preparing Portakal ( Orange ) Juice. Almost everybody uses the same 'squeezer'. You can also have Nars (Pomegranate), Elma (Apple) or Ananas ( Pineapple) Juice if you want.

A local lady preparing Gozleme in Kapadokya ( Cappadocia )

 Grilling the Gozleme in Kapadokya

Specialty of Kapadokya...Tandir Kuzu or Tandir Et. Lamb or Beef cooked in its own 'tandir' or clay pot. If you found yourself in Kapadokya, be sure to try this fantastic dish....you can't get it elsewhere, not even in Istanbul....I think. Well...I have not found any shop in Istanbul that sell them.

Tandir Kuzu of Kapadokya....when you open the pot. Its delicious as the juice of the meat will be released into the gravy under a very slow and long fire. Out of this world !!

Iskender Kebab...the famous dish of Bursa. It was reputedly created by Alexander The Great in Bursa on his way to Persia. Legend has it that he asked his men to grill the marinated meat on vertical sword so that the juice of the meat will flow down and mix with the rest of the meat at the bottom. If you placed the meat horizontally, the juice will be lost in the amber or fire. Clever. wasn't he? Iskender kebab is now eaten with 'creamy yogurt' and its special sauce. After putting the plate on your table, the waiter will ask if you want any 'yag'? That means oil. Just say YES, 'cos that what makes this kebab even more tasty. Forget about the calories and whatnots....you're only in Istanbul once, yes? This Iskender kebab, you MUST try. I am yet to meet someone who doesn't like it......

Iskender Kebab...looks so plain and simple but I am sure it takes hours to prepare. And this was at the Original Iskender Kebabci of Bursa. The restaurant have been in business for more than 100 years....mind boggling, doesn't it?? 

If you are like the Turks or the Japanese, who hates to try new food...well....there is always the Golden Arches for you. Where everything else remain and taste the same....how boring can that be ??? In Istanbul, some smaller McD does not operate as a fast food joint. You order and wait for them to cook for you. Now, that could be the only different for McD.....

There is something peculiar about the Turks though. They just do not want to try new or 'foreign' foods. Try giving them  a food that they are not familiar with, and you'll get a feeling as if you had just given them poison! I'm not alone in feeling this (if you think that my cooking is terrible, huh !) but all the Yabanci that I met said the same thing. I must find out 'why'....one of these days. They will NEVER EVER try any food that you offered. One of my country's local chefs was furious when he was faced with this predicament when he was here trying to promote food from my country. So, there you are......and that explains why it is so difficult to get imported foodstuffs here. Apart from the strict import regulations, they are simply not interested, period! 

I guess the Turks are like the Japanesse when it comes to food. They'll stick to theirs wherever they go. That explain why you can get so many Turkish restaurants and shops in other European countries, esp. Germany where a majority of the Turks live and work there. Actually, it's not such a bad thing....be proud of your food and culture...no matter where you are. 

I hope I can cover all the important and popular food from here but I know that this require more than one posting. There are still plenty more to go.......Afiyet Olsun !! 

FOOTNOTE :

Happy Birthday to those who were born today in this leap year! Poor thing..you guys can only celebrate your birthday once every 4 years....but you guys sure are special !!!!

We touched 3838 viewers yesterday....what a lovely number. Thank you All !!